Fera, at Claridges

I’m an unashamed fan of Fera – I’ve been several times now, and it’s one of my favourite places to eat.  Though the dishes are multi-dimensional and intensely flavoured, there’s complete clarity of flavour.  As a cook, I can also appreciate the variety of techniques employed, and though Mr Rogan is keen on his gadgets, their use never overshadows the dish.

Absurdly, even though it’s just won its first Michelin star, it’s easy to get a table at lunch time – do try an early walk-in.  Fera is required to keep a number of tables free for the hotel, so it’s highly likely that you’ll be successful.

Benjamin Hofa was running the pass on this particular visit, and my pescatarian spanner barely caused a hiccup in service.  For meat eaters, there’s plenty of variety in the menu, but the test of a decent kitchen, is coming up with suitable alternatives – and my dishes were comparable to Hubby’s.

Indeed, for me the joy of the menu is the sheer variety of vegetal ingredients.  A kaleidescope of herbs have different effects on the palate, combinations can be combined to create lightness and vivacity, to cleanse the palate, or provide a hit of intense, savoury umami… Flowers aren’t just there for decoration, mushrooms can mimic flesh, and vegetables, pudding.  I can feel that I’m losing some of you with that last statement, but ultimately the dishes are more than gimmicks, they’re simply delicious.

The proceedings always kick of with a selection of very tasty morsels…