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April 11, 2015 Book Review

My New Roots, by Sarah Britton

My New RootsI’m thoroughly enjoying Sarah’s book, which is full of original and delicious offerings. We’re entering a brave new world, where foraged, seasonal, raw, vegetarian, vegan and allergen-free cooking-styles are colliding head first. I’ve the most obscure Scandinavian restaurant books sitting along-side my raw books, and for the first time it’s beginning to feel as though these worlds are overlapping in mainstream vegetarian books… Yes, there have been a spate of releases in this genre of late, but this is probably my favourite of 2015. These are dishes that are balanced, well-considered, and beautiful – they feel a little more grown-up than some of the other offerings.

The book is divided in to the following sections:

Essential techniques

Spring
Mornings: strawberry coconut milkshake; carrot rhubarb muffins; freekeh pancakes with wilted Swiss chard and poached eggs; strawberry chia jam; dark chocolate cherry overnight oats; the life-changing loaf of bread with olives and caraway; spring cabbage wraps with couscous, za’atar and spicy tahini dressing; pick-me-up pickled turnips; shaved turnip and radish salad with poppy seed dressing; savory spring hand pies; dandelion greens with ghee-poached radishes and smoked salt; oyster mushroom bisque; quinoa risotto with grilled scapes and rocket; black lentil salad with tzatziki, avocado and pea shoots; sprouted wild rice with pistachios and spring vegetables; socca with grilled white and green asparagus, dill and feta; moon macaroon; apricot rhubarb clafoutis; strawberry chamomile and no-churn frozen yogurt; sunflower sesame seed brittle

Early summer
Mornings: rooibos ginger sun tea; multi-grain carrot cake porridge with pecan crunch; tempeh mushroom breakfast bowl. fully loaded breakfast bars
Small Measures: sorrel hummus; labneh with rose petals, sesame and honey; carrot top and garlic scape pesto; grilled courgette and spring onions with baby spinach and hazelnuts; the real deal ginger ale
Mains: caramelised onion, olive and kale calzones; full-bloom rocket salad with millet, redcurrant and nasturtiums; caramelised fennel on herbed pollen; Thai-style coconut soup with courgette noodles; broad bean, sweet pean and tarragon soup
Sweets: mint chip ice cream sandwiches; the raw blondie; raspberry macadamia thumbprint cookies; piña colada passion fruit popsicles

Late summer
Mornings: raspberry breeze smoothie; raw cashew yoghurt with maple and blackberry; cornmeal pancakes with gingered plum compote; blueberry cardamom chia pudding
All measures: sparkling mint lemonade; cleansing grape salsa; courgette firecracker corn bread; roasted red pepper walnut dip; heirloom tomatoes with olive-cured olives and crusty bread; sundown carrot and grilled corn salad; the best lentil salad ever
Mains: CBLT-coconut “bacon” lettuce tomato sandwich; cucumber nigella spelt salad; miso sesame-clazed aubergine; grain-free hemp tabbouleh; buckwheat crepes with creamy green bean slaw
Sweets: blueberry-lemon star anise cantuccini; berry volcano cake with white chocolate hemp sauce; raw key lime coconut tarts, grilled peaches with blackberry sauce; rawkin’ funky monkey ice-cream

Autumn
Mornings: vanilla rose apple cider; green galaxy smoothie bowl with buckwheat crispies; hazelnut flatbread with maple spice pumpkin butter; warm spinach. “bacon”, and egg salad; fig and buckwheat breakfast tart
Small measures: red onion lentil soup with Manchebo toasts; raw cashew cheese; celeriac ribbon salad with toasted coming and pomegranate; pan beignet with sunflower seed “tuna”; roasted butternut squash with grilled helium and duke on massaged kale
Mains: skinny dip white bean fondue; roasted cauliflower with Lebanese lentils and kaniwa; forest floor flatbreads; 10-spiced chocolate chili; roasted pumpkin with black rice and tangerine tahini sauce
Sweets: pear apple blackberry crumble; upside-down plum cake; walnut fig bars; raw chocolate night sky; banoffee pie.

Winter
Mornings: chaga tea; chaga hot chocolate; chunky banana bread granola; ginger-rosemary roasted grapefruit with macadamia nut cream; chipotle sweet potato and trumpet mushroom breakfast tacos; cranberry carrot loaf
Small Measures: pickled fennel, grapefruit, cabbage and avocado salad; beetroot party with orange and pine nuts; roasted parsnips with pomegranate glaze and za’atar; trippy tie-dye soup
Mains: four corners lentil soup; butternut stacks with kale pesto, kasha and butter beans; leek “scallops” and chanterelles on black rice; grain-free black kale sushi rolls with white miso ginger sauce
Sweets: creamy eggnog milkshake; pecan cranberry pie; rooibos-poached pears with raw chocolate olive sauce; salt ‘n’ pepper chocolate chip cookies; blood orange chocolate cake.

Stocking the pantry

There’s a useful introduction to the basic techniques and ingredients in a well stocked vegetarian kitchen, together with options that are gluten, dairy and sugar-free. The book is divided by season, something we’re beginning to see more and more frequently {hurrah!}, and encourages you to get out into the market to see what’s fresh. You won’t see many of the offerings that had filled the Sunday supplements of late, and that’s my reason for giving Sarah an elusive 5th star – there are enough original recipes in this book to ensure you’re kept moving forward. I’m particularly looking forward to giving the coconut ‘bacon’ BLT a go – I loathe meat substitutes, but I reckon this one will actually be pretty interesting, with tamari, liquid smoke, maple syrup and coconut… The book is also beautifully shot – you can tell Sarah has come up the food-blogger route – it shows on every page…

One note of caution, this isn’t a book for someone who’s looking for the odd vegetarian recipe – not everyone keeps organic cacao nibs and chia seeds in their pantry {the cost can add up quickly unless you’re using them regularly}, and so it isn’t necessary going to suit those looking to supplement their usual diet with an occasional foray into this world.

You can get your copy here >

February 2, 2015 Book Review

White Heat 25

MPW by Bob Carlos ClarkeFor anyone too young to remember the early ’90’s, it’s pretty difficult to sum up the impact of White Heat at the time. Marco was the “enfant terrible” of the fine dining scene, “the volatile but beautiful Marco”, he of the mercurial mood swings and exquisite dishes.

Until White Heat crash-landed on our desks, we’d been raised on a diet of the Roux brothers – and on television in 1990 we had the sedate meanderings of Anton Mosimann – the most outlandish cook the public had been widely exposed to was Floyd! Suddenly this maelstrom of a chef was dragging the food scene around in his wake. White Heat was first issued in the year after Marco received his second Michelin star – he’d been awarded his first star 1987 – and the 2nd in 1988. This book charts that hectic rise to the top, and captures those heady days perfectly.

What we couldn’t anticipate at the time was that, within the decade he would have become the youngest and first British chef to be granted 3 stars (in 1995), and that disillusioned and unwilling to commit to the gruelling workload, he’d quit the pass and return his stars in 1999.

White Heat 25 is the perfect retrospective: as well as becoming the fifth reprint of the original book, it includes a new section written by the chefs who worked with Marco, or followed on from him. The following chefs contributed to this anniversary edition: Jason Atherton, Sat Bains, Mario Batali, Raymond Blanc, Anthony Bourdain, Adam Byatt, David Chang, Phil Howard, Tom Kerridge, Paul Kitching, Pierre Koffmann, Gordon Ramsay and Jock Zonfrillo. Some have shared their memories of Marco, others have commented on the impact of White Heat. The foreword is written by Albert Roux.

The book contains the following recipes:
Assiette of chocolate; basic mashed potato; basic pasta dough; basic wine stock; biscuit glaçé; blanquette of scallops and langoustines, with cucumber and ginger; braised pig’s trotter ‘Pierre Koffmann’; brunoise of ginger; chicken mousse; chicken stock; clarified butter; classic vinaigrette; confit of garlic or shallots; court-bouillon; cream vinaigrette; creamed watercress; crème plèissière; crispy fried leeks; escalope of salmon with basil; fettuccine of vegetables; feuilletine of sweetbreads; feuiletté of roast rabbit, spring vegetables, jus of coriander; fillet of sea bass with ratatouille and an essence of red peppers; fish stock; fish velouté; fresh tomato purée; fricassee of mushrooms; fricassee of sea scallops and calamares with ginger, sauce nero; gratin of red fruits; hot foie gras, lentilles de pays, sherry vinegar sauce; hot mango tart; julienne of orange zest; jus de langoustines ou d’homard; jus de nage; lemon tart; lentilles du pays; lobster with its own vinaigrette; Madeira sauce; nage of sole and langoustine with carrot; navarin of fish; noisettes of lamb en crepinette, fettuccine of vegetables, jus of tarragon; passion fruit soufflés; pâte à tulipe; peach melba; piece of Scotch beef, confit of shallots and garlic with a red wine and shallot sauce; pigeon en vessie with a tagliatelle of leeks and truffles, jus of thyme; potage of shellfish with truffle and leek; potato rosti; puff pastry; raspberry coulis; ravioli; ravioli of lobster with a beurre soy sauce; red mullet with citrus fruits; roast button onions; roast guinea fowl with wild mushrooms; roast pears with honey ice-cream; roast pigeon from Bresse with a ravioli of wild mushrooms with a fumet of truffles; salad of red mullet, sauce gazpacho; savarin of raspberries; spaghetti of carrots; stock syrup; sugar cage; sugared nuts; tagliatelle; tagliatelle of oysters with caviar; terrine of leeks and langoustines, water vinaigrette; tranche of calves’ liver with a sauce of lime; tuille baskets; turbot with baby leeks, a ravioli of scallops, choucroute of celery with a grain mustard sauce; veal stock; vegetable stock; woodcock, lentilles de pays, with a red wine sauce.

I miss Marco, I miss those days and all his restaurants, and I particularly miss the Mirabelle disco ball! <sighs>

You can get your copy of White Heat here >

November 11, 2014 Book Review

Jerusalem… by Yotam Ottolenghi

This third cookbook by Mr Ottolenghi is the winner of the Observer Food Monthly cookbook of 2013, but is still riding high at number 25 – indeed Mr Ottolenghi has three cookbooks in the top 30 on amazon – no mean feat!!

Why is he so popular? Can one person be a zeitgeist in their own right? If they can, then simply he is… This particular book is also a loving study of Jerusalem, with photographs of the city and it’s people. The city is an amazing confluence of Jewish, Libyan, Italian, Greek Orthodox, Russian Orthodox, and many more cultures, and its food is consequently incredibly varied, but quite unique…

The book is divided into the following sections:

Introduction: Jerusalem food; The passion in the air; The Recipes; A comment about ownership; History

Vegetables: Sweet potatoes & fresh figs; baby spinach, dates & almonds; roasted butternut squash, red onions with tahini & za’atar…

Pulses and grains: Maqluba; couscous with tomato and onion; mejadra; musabaha and toasted pita, hummus…

Soups: Seafood and fennel; pistachio soup; burnt aubergine and mograbieh soup; tomato and sourdough soup…

Stuffed: Stuffed artichokes with peas and dill; stuffed aubergine with lamb and pine nuts; stuffed potatoes…

Meat: Braised quail with apricots, currants and tamarind; roasted chicken with clementines and arak; chopped liver…

Fish: Pan-fried mackerel with golden beetroot and orange salsa; cod cakes in tomato sauce; fricassee salad…

Savoury Pastries: Acharuli khachapuri; ghraybeh; mutabbaq; brick; red pepper and baked egg galettes…

Sweets and Desserts: Muhallabieh; semolina coconut and marmalade cake; set yoghurt pudding with poached peaches…

Condiments: Harissa; dukkah; zhoug; preserved lemons; pickled lemons; pilpekchuma; labneh; baharat…

Another fascinating journey into a delightful cuisine, I dip in and out of it constantly…

You can buy your copy here >

 

October 29, 2014 Baking

Dominique Ansel, The Secret Recipes…

Dominique AnselDominique Ansel’s Cronut™ – the much imitated and reinterpreted cross between a doughnut and croissant. I’ve seen Dominique interviewed many times, and he’s always at great pains to point out that his bakery makes much more than the now infamous (and trade marked) Cronut™.   And yet – the queues form every morning, for the very limited number available.

In the Secret Recipes, Dominique knows we’re going to turn straight to this one, and indeed I did! I was slightly peeved to find that the recipe here is a version “adapted” for home cooks… To be fair, it’s still a pretty labour-intense two-day process, and will still be a labour of love for some. I don’t know about you though, but I’m perfectly capable of turning out a croissant, so do feel a little cross to be given a watered-down version.. Hardly the secret recipe at all then….

The first section of the book is more anecdotal, and conveys the inspiration behind the best known recipes: Time is an ingredient | Beyond the comfort zone | Don’t listen | What’s in a name | Create and re-create | Everything but the flavo(u)r | Never run out of ideas The Recipe section is broken into:

A toast before baking

Beginner recipes:
Hot chocolate*
Chocolate pecan cookies*
Mini Madeleines
Mini me’s*
Popcorn chouquettes
Marshmallow chicks*
Vanilla ice-cream*
Apple tart tatin
The purple tart

Intermediate recipes
Cannelé de Bourdeaux
Vanilla religiuese
Cotton soft cheesecake
Paris-New York
Perfect little egg sandwich
Black and blue Pavlova*
Pink champagne macarons*
Apple marshmallow (amazing!)*
Sunflower tart
Christmas morning cereal*
“Lime me Up” tart
Frozen s’mores
Arlette

Advanced recipes:
Chocolate caviar tart
The angry egg*
Dominique’s Kouign Amanns (DKA)
Magic soufflé
The At-Home Cronut(tm) pastry
Ibérico and Mahón croissant
Sweet potato Mont Blanc
Gingerbread pinecone (also amazing!)
Baked Alaska

Additional techniques:
Cooking custard
Pâte â chop
Piping
Tempering chocolate
Lamination

*Gluten-Free Recipes

On average the recipes take two to three pages, are well documented, and with good photographs of the finished product. The book is actually pretty luscious, and does include a number of recipes you don’t often see, so it’s well worth adding to your patisserie section. But if you’re buying it only for the Cronut™ recipe, you have been warned.

 

Get your copy here:

October 25, 2014 Baking

British Baking… by Paul Hollywood

Paul Hollywood CoverThis book is a look at regional baking around the United Kingdom. Paul has taken recipes from all over the Isles, and broken them down into the following categories:

Southwest; South and Southeast; Midlands; North; Wales; Ireland; and Scotland

More useful for me though is the breakdown by recipe type:

Savoury pies, pastries and puddings: baked Somerset Brie; Cornish pasties; Denby dale cake; Dingle lamb pie; fidget pie; hame and goat’s leek couronne; homity pie; leek and Caerphilly tart; Norfolk plough pudding; priddy oggies; Sussex churls; Welsh onion cake; Whitby fish pie

Scones, griddle scones and pancakes: boxty pancakes; cheese and chive scones; oatmeal drop scones; pikelets; Staffordshire oatcakes; sultana scone ring; Welsh cakes

Breads: Boxty bread; crusty Swansea; Kentish huff kings; Norfolk knobs; oat bread; Sally Lunn; soda bread; stilton, pear and walnut bread; stottie cakes; wholemeal seeded load

Sweet yeasted breads: barm brace; Devonshire splits; Dorset wiggs, Isle of Wight doughnuts; Lincolnshire plum bread; mothering buns; saffron cake; Selkirk bannock; Whitby lemon buns

Sweet pies and puddings: Bkaewell pudding; Eton messl halloween pudding; Hereford apple dumplings; Leicestershire hunting pudding; marmalade cheesecake with whisky oranges; Monmouth pudding with plums; Odlbury gooseberry pies; Osborn pudding; poor knights of Windsor; rhubarb plate pie; St Fillan’s pudding; Sussex pond pudding; treacle sponge pudding

Sweet tarts and pastries: Bakewell tart; Chorley cakes; Ecclefechan butter tarts; Eccles cakes; maid of honour; Manchester tart; Northamptonshire cheesecakes; strawberry and pistachio shortcakes

Cakes and tea breads: bars brith, black burn; cider cake; Cumbrian sand cake; Dorset apple cake; farmhouse walnut cake; Guinness and black mini muffins; honey buns; Kentish cherry cake, Hevva cake; Irish coffee cake, marmalade cake, Melton Hunt cake; porter cake; raspberry crumble cake; Ripon spice cake; seed cake; white chocolate and cherry plate cake

Biscuits and tray bakes: chocolate chip petticoats tails; chocolate heavies; coconut flapjacks; Cornish fairings; Goosnargh cakes; jumbles; oat biscuits; oatcakes; parlies; Shewsbury biscuits; Tantallon cakes, Welsh gingerbread; Yorkshire parkin

I’m not sure I’d ordinarily rave about Paul’s books, and I do have several…  However the process of indexing my hundreds of cookbooks has really made me focus on content – where increasingly recipes overlap, Paul has managed to capture a number of old-fashioned recipes that aren’t listed very often these days.  It’s worth having for that alone.  I love making bara brith, so it was very useful to have some other variations – I’ll definitely try the Ripon spice cake.

Paul Hollywood Ilustration  Paul Hollywood Muffins  Paul Hollywood Pastry

You can buy your copy here >

October 11, 2014 Book Review

Food for Thought… By Alan Murchison

Screen Shot 2014-10-23 at 19.00.06Alan has worked in a number of world-class restaurants, including Inverlochy Castle, Claridges, Nobu, L’ortolan and Le Manoir aux Quat Saisons.  His restaurants La Bécasse in Ludlow and L’ortolan in Shinfield both have Michelin stars, and made Alan the only chef with more than one Michelin starred restaurant outside London.  He’s also appeared on a number of television shows, including The Great British Menu, Hairy Bikers and Market Kitchen.

The book is divided into the following sections:

The Start  |  The Journey  |  Starters  |  Mains  | Cheeses  |  Desserts, and Basics

Without doubt this is one of my favourite.  Ironically Alan had a great deal of trouble getting this book published, and ended up publishing it himself.  This makes the resulting book even more remarkable, because the dishes are fabulous and the pictures make you want to get yourself straight to his restaurants.

There are a number of quotations alongside beautiful shots of the countryside.  The photographer Mark Law, get’s his own section – Julia Charles, the nutritionist gets a section – favoured suppliers get a section…  This book is a celebration of Alan’s journey, and the people who have helped him along the way….

Read More

October 10, 2014 Book Review

The MEATliquor Chronicles…

MeatLiquorBy far one of the most original cookbooks in my collection. The recipes are easy to follow, and straight forward. The book is so much more than a cookbook though – it’s a journal which documents the beginning of Meat Liquor through it’s various incarnations, to the beast it is now. There are lots of photographs of the crew, little vignettes, there’s a whole conversation about queuing, refereed by Stefan Chomka… In fact, maybe that’s why I like it so much? It feels like my twitter stream, full of the opinionated and food obsessed people I love.   I’ve listed some of the recipes at the bottom, but I can’t imagine you’ve found your way to this book without knowing who Meat Liquor are. If you do, yes, my darlings – you’re going to love it!

…

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October 8, 2014 Book Review

Plenty More… by Yotam Ottolenghi

Mr Ottolenghi has three cookbooks in the top 20 on amazon – no mean feat!! Why is he so popular? Can one person be a zeitgeist in their own right? If they can, then he is… The recipes are clean, full of flavour, use a variety of ingredients, and more importantly for me at the moment, don’t rely on mountains of meat… If we’re going to encourage people to eat a broader variety of food, we have to make it flipping delicious!…

Read More

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I’m passionate about food, its provenance and its sustainability. As a technical cook, I like to see what’s happening in the kitchens of Michelin starred restaurants, but you’re just as likely to find me at home making sourdough. You can find some of my recipes in In The Mix 2, an award-winning Thermomix cookbook.

I’m also truly blessed – I can open my fridge at any time and know it’s crammed with all manner of loveliness – but that’s not the case for everyone. There are people all around me in the UK who rely on food banks to feed their kids, and themselves, and every box of cereal or teabag makes a difference. You can donate food to your local food bank, or time, or money, and if you want more information the best starting place is http://www.trusselltrust.org.

You can also find me here:

Foodies100 Index of UK Food BlogsFoodies100
The Renaissance Epicurean... London restaurants
Top Food BlogsUK Food Bloggers Association

The Eleven Madison Park Granola

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