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British

Corrigan’s, Mayfair

Everyone has their favourite place to eat in a gang, whether steakhouse or Indian, pizzeria or tapas bar… My personal favourite at the moment is Corrigan’s… When we first visited it a few years ago we were practically the only people in the vast room, and the atmosphere was frayed to say the least.  Now it’s my go-to place for any group over three, having both prompt, but not lightening service, being crowded and therefore having a decent atmosphere, and actually allowing you to sit over your stickies at the end, cackling with your chums. There are also a number of private spaces available for hire, from the two kitchen tables to the more formal Lindsay Room. Do look out for the Restaurant Manager, Magdalena Gorska – formidable but utterly charming, every request is handled with a can-do attitude, and a graceful smile!

One of the joys of eating here is also the observance of seasonality, with a menu full of the delights of each month – including rhubarb, the last remnants of the truffle season, and a huge rib of beef on the specials.

HERITAGE BEETROOT SALAD, WITH GOAT'S CURD, MERLOT

HERITAGE BEETROOT SALAD, WITH GOAT’S CURD, MERLOT

Corona's February 2015

SHELLFISH SALAD, WITH TEMPURA PRAWN

CORNISH CRAB SALAD, CHILLI & LIME

CORNISH CRAB SALAD, CHILLI & LIME

ROAST LINE CAUGHT COD, CARAMELISED CAULIFLOWER, TRUFFLED LEEKS

ROAST LINE CAUGHT COD,
CARAMELISED CAULIFLOWER, TRUFFLED LEEKS

ROAST RIB OF BEEF FOR TWO

ROAST RIB OF BEEF FOR TWO

ROAST RIB OF BEEF

ROAST RIB OF BEEF

T-BONE STEAK WITH ONION RINGS

T-BONE STEAK WITH ONION RINGS

RHUBARB CRUMBLE SOUFFLÉ, GINGER CUSTARD

RHUBARB CRUMBLE SOUFFLÉ, GINGER CUSTARD

 

1 Michelin Star

Angler, Moorgate

Angler, hidden in the heart of the City of London, is one of my favourite restaurants and was another on our hit~list now we’ve returned.  Tony Fleming set up Angler three years ago, and since achieving his first Michelin star within a year, he’s taken the restaurant from strength to strength ~ there’s a constant and steady hum of diners in the glittering mirrored room.  I’m a little bit obsessed with meticulous attention to detail, and there’s nothing to fault here.

The glory of being in a fish restaurant is that I can literally eat my way around the menu, and where dishes do contain a meat element {such as veal cheek}, Tony replaces it with something {to my mind} more luscious, such as a plump and juicy langoustine.

Angler always delivers ~ do check out the dessert offerings, which are more beautiful and delicious each time we visit.

Angler, 2015

Cauliflower cheese {soup}, with a parmesan galette

 

Angler, 2015

Crab cocktail, deep fried Porthilly oyster, rouille

 

Angler, 2015

Onto which is poured a crab bisque

 

Angler, 2015

Shellfish ravioli, chive and tomato butter, fennel and ginger slaw, lime

 

Angler, 2015

Scallops, langoustine, carrot purée, ginger, jus

 

Angler, 2015

Brill, ragout of squid, fennel purée, sea purslane

 

Angler, 2015

Lime posset, spiced bread {dehydrated and fresh}, mango, meringue

 

Angler, 2015

Flourless orange cake, grapefruit, Grand Marnier, roast almonds {salted}, roast almond ice-cream

 

Angler, 2015

Petit fours including a salted caramel truffle {divine}, and Earl Grey fudge {already snaffled by Hubby}

 

Angler, 2015

The second the sun shines, you’ll find me here, on the Angler Terrace

 

Angler
South Place Hotel
3 South Place
London EC2M 2AF
020 7215 1260

1 Michelin Star

Alyn Williams, Mayfair

We’ve been so busy over the last few months that we’ve neglected our favourite restaurants… Now that we’re back in London, Alyn Williams was front and centre of our hit list, and there’s nothing nicer than finding out what’s new on Alyn’s menu {or checking out London’s only Michelin~starred glittery carpet}.

The menu holds a perfect combination of rich umami dishes alongside light and fragrant ones – particularly nice for me as a non-meat eater… That’s not to say that Hubby didn’t receive is fair share of protein, but we were particularly impressed by the bright notes, which revived the palate and provided contrast to the depth of some of the dishes.

Giancarlo, the utterly charming restaurant manager, was front and centre as always, and the room was relaxed but buzzing. Still ridiculously good value at £70 for a 7 course tasting menu, it’s one of the five restaurants I recommend the most for those looking for a fine-dining treat.  Even better, at lunch time you can have three courses for £30!

My favourite dishes on this occasion were the cauliflower cheese {divine}, the rhubarb dessert, and the mint and chocolate – the mint being particularly clean against the rich chocolate.  No need for umami overkill, the dishes were nuanced and full of flavour.

Alyn Williams

Langoustine, sand carrot, blood orange and carrot jelly with a crème fraîche bavarois, blood oranges, dates, cashew, garam masala

Alyn Williams

Blow-torched mackerel, buckweed, sea urchin, miso, buckwheat ‘chop suey’, dashi

Miso eel, beetroot, hispi cabbage, celeriac, cream cheese

Alyn Williams

Cauliflower cheese, croutons, winter truffle

Alyn Williams

Sea bass, truffle, burnt pear, braised and grilled red and white endive, salsify, frisée, vanilla purée

Kale crisps, cauliflower, hispi cabbage, greek yoghurt, barbecue sauce

Alyn Williams

Crème caramel, rhubarb granita, poached rhubarb

Alyn Williams

Chocolate, mint snow, crème fraiche, chocolate soil

Journal

Marco Pierre White: White Heat

I recently wrote a review of White Heat, which has made me so nostalgic for that particular moment in food history – although the dishes were absolutely classical {Marco having been trained by Albert Roux, Pierre Koffmann, Raymond Blanc and Nico Ladenis}, the birth of White Heat was to become the birth of the celebrity chef as we know it. It’s impossible to explain its impact at the time – like experiencing Woodstock – you almost had to be there.

I expect some younger chefs will watch these videos and snort – but this is a chef who doesn’t need to rely on a sous vide machine, blow torch, or ‘snow’… Even the plates Marco, and others, used during this era have become revered – Daniel Clifford at Midsummer House recently tweeted a pic of plates he’d kept for 18 years! And the advice given by Albert Roux and Nico Ladenis is particularly prophetic…

So. Ignore the fashion, ignore the decor, enjoy the cooking, the atmosphere, and those beautiful plates!  In these video clips, Marco cooks for Albert Roux, Pierre Koffmann, and Nico Ladenis:

 

Journal

Eric Ripert’s Club Sandwich

I had to include this recent video on the blog – it’s the utterly divine Eric Ripert, he of le Bernardin, making the ultimate Croque Monsieur {in his case, smoked salmon, Swiss cheese and caviar… yes, caviar!!}.

It appeals to me on more than one level – yes, I’d love to eat a ton of caviar in a Croque Monsieur – who wouldn’t?  But Eric also manages to teach us the right way to make a Croque Monsieur, and it’s worth including for that reason alone!

And if you should happen to find yourself with a ton of caviar one day, that you don’t fancy putting on your celebration table or NY’s Eve party like a normal person, hey, you could always just bung it in a toasted sandwich!

 

Recipe

Saffron Chicken

My Ottolenghi obsession continues: this saffron chicken salad with fennel has the warm notes of saffron, and the bright piquancy of blood oranges.  There’s something about Middle Eastern cooking that fascinates me at the moment.  Though I’m normally firmly routed in an Italian sensibility, for the last couple of years Hubby has increasingly cooked dishes from the Indian subcontinent.  As a result we’ve become attuned to the subtlety of spices and herbs. Curries and the like can still be a little overwhelming for my Mediterranean palate, but Middle Eastern cuisine sits very comfortably between the two: bright herbs and warm spices, the food is flavoursome, colourful and healthy.  Though this dish isn’t a traditional Israeli one, it was born out of that food culture. It can be served on its own, or for a more substantial meal, you could pair it with Persian Jewelled Rice.

Ingredients:
1 orange ( I used two small blood oranges)
50g honey
½ tsp saffron threads
1 tbsp white wine vinegar
about 300ml water
1kg skinless chicken breast
4 tbsp olive oil
2 small fennel bulbs, thinly sliced
15g picked coriander leaves
15g picked basil leaves, torn
15 picked mint leaves, torn
2 tbsp lemon juice
1 red chilli, thinly sliced

Method:

  • Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C Fan/Gas Mark 6.
  • Trim and discard 1cm off the top and tail of the orange and cut it into 12 wedges, keeping the skin on. Remove any pips. Place the wedges in a small saucepan with the honey, saffron, vinegar and just enough water to cover the orange wedges. Bring to the boil and simmer gently for about an hour. At the end you should be left with soft orange and about 3 tablespoons of thick syrup; add water during the cooking if the liquid gets very low. Use a food processor to blitz the orange and syrup into a smooth, runny paste; again, add a little water if needed.
  • Mix the chicken breast with half the olive oil and plenty of salt and pepper, and place on a very hot, ridged griddle pan. Sear for about 2 minutes on each side to get clear char marks all over. Transfer to a roasting tin and place in the oven for 15–20 minutes, or until just cooked. Once the chicken is cool enough to handle, but still warm, tear it with your hands into rough and quite large pieces.
  • Place in a large mixing bowl, pour over half the orange paste and stir well. (The other half you can keep in the fridge for a few days and would make a good addition for herb salsa to serve with oily fish such as mackerel or salmon.)
  • Add the remaining ingredients to the salad, including the rest of the olive oil, and toss gently. Taste, add salt and pepper and, if needed, some more olive oil and lemon juice.

Orange Chicken

Orange Chicken

Orange Chicken

Saffron Chicken

Book Review

Deliciously Ella

Unless you were in a coma in 2014, you will have fallen across Deliciously Ella. She of the glowing skin and superlatives, the glossy magazine articles, and the beautifully-shot blog. And now, the cookbook. I was beginning to dread it, thinking it might be quite lightweight, but actually Ella has managed to cram it full of healthy, vegan, gluten-free recipes and lifestyle advice. It’s beautifully shot, of course, and contains a useful index of ingredients for those new to this kind of diet, it also contains a number of basic recipes for almond milk, nut butter, etc. The writing style is still pretty effusive, but if you’re used to her blog, this will not news to you.

The book contains the following sections and recipes:

Dedication
My story
Getting started

Grains: Easy Quinoa with Sautéed Veggies; Gnocchi with Pea Pesto; Warm Wild Rice Salad; Buckwheat and Beetroot Risotto; Creamy Polenta with Mushrooms and Crispy Kale; Quinoa Pizza Crust; Quinoa Tabbouleh; Mexican Quinoa Bowl; Quinoa and Turmeric Fritters; Buckwheat Focaccia; Fresh Spring Rolls; Butternut Squash Risotto; Creamy Coconut Porridge; Apple and Cinnamon Porridge; Bake Apple and Honey Loaf; Berry Scones with Coconut Cream; Simple Oat Cookies; Flapjacks; Nuts and seeds; Almond and Chia Energy Bites; Chia Breakfast Pudding Granola Bars; Cinnamon Pecan Granola; Cacao and Hazelnut Spread; Superfood Bread; Superfood Crackers; Creamy Brazil Nut Cheese; Brazil Nut and Rocket Pesto; Pasta Raw Brownies; Chocolate Chia Cookies; Double-Layered Hazelnut Cake; Almond Butter Fudge

Legumes and pulses: Three Types of Hummus; Cannellini Soup Two Ways; Chickpea Flour Wraps; Falafels; Lentil, Courgette and Mint Salad; Baked Beans; Spicy Roasted Chickpeas; Black and Kidney Bean Chilli; Lentil Bolognese; Lentil and Butternut Squash Dhal; Coconut Thai Curry with Chickpeas;

Vegetables: Easy Roast Veggies; Classic Mashed Potato; Giant Hash Brown; Ten-Minute Tomato Pasta; Sweet Potato Wedges; Perfect Roast Potatoes; Spicy Salsa; Pan Con Tomate; Cucumber and Avocado Rolls; Carrot, Orange and Cashew Salad; Beetroot Carpaccio; Classic Stir-Fry; Roasted Squash, Olive, Avocado and Rocket Salad; Broccoli and Avocado Salad; Stuffed Chestnut Mushrooms; Marinated Kale Salad; Warm Winter Salad; Veggie Lasagne; Cauliflower and Potato Curry; Broccoli with a Tahini Dressing; Classic Guacamole; Courgette Noodles with Avocado Pesto; Sweet Potato Pancakes; Beetroot Chocolate Cake with Coconut Frosting; Sweet Potato Brownies; Easy Avocado Chocolate Mousse; Classic Carrot Cake with Caramel Frosting

Fruit: Baked Apples with Coconut Cream; Waffles Simple Mango and Cashew Mousse; Blueberry Muffins; Strawberry Jam; Date Purée Apple and Blackberry Crumble; Baked Bananas Stuffed with Melted Dark Chocolate; Berry Cheesecake; Banoffee Pie; Key Lime Pie; Banana Ice Cream; Ice Lollies

Smoothies and juices: Green goddess smoothie; tropical mango, coconut and pineapple smoothie; classic berry smoothie; best breakfast smoothie; simple banana and spinach smoothie; oaty smoothie; pear, pomegranate and basil smoothie; mango, kiwi and ginger smoothie; acai bowl; mint chocolate milkshake; banana milkshake;

Living the Deliciously Ella way
Brunch
The Perfect Dinner Party: Menu One
The Perfect Dinner Party: Menu Two
Girls’ Dinner
Picnics and Healthy Food on the Go
Sunday Roast
My Favourite
Resources
Frequently asked questions

You can get your copy here >

Book Review

White Heat 25

MPW by Bob Carlos ClarkeFor anyone too young to remember the early ’90’s, it’s pretty difficult to sum up the impact of White Heat at the time. Marco was the “enfant terrible” of the fine dining scene, “the volatile but beautiful Marco”, he of the mercurial mood swings and exquisite dishes.

Until White Heat crash-landed on our desks, we’d been raised on a diet of the Roux brothers – and on television in 1990 we had the sedate meanderings of Anton Mosimann – the most outlandish cook the public had been widely exposed to was Floyd! Suddenly this maelstrom of a chef was dragging the food scene around in his wake. White Heat was first issued in the year after Marco received his second Michelin star – he’d been awarded his first star 1987 – and the 2nd in 1988. This book charts that hectic rise to the top, and captures those heady days perfectly.

What we couldn’t anticipate at the time was that, within the decade he would have become the youngest and first British chef to be granted 3 stars (in 1995), and that disillusioned and unwilling to commit to the gruelling workload, he’d quit the pass and return his stars in 1999.

White Heat 25 is the perfect retrospective: as well as becoming the fifth reprint of the original book, it includes a new section written by the chefs who worked with Marco, or followed on from him. The following chefs contributed to this anniversary edition: Jason Atherton, Sat Bains, Mario Batali, Raymond Blanc, Anthony Bourdain, Adam Byatt, David Chang, Phil Howard, Tom Kerridge, Paul Kitching, Pierre Koffmann, Gordon Ramsay and Jock Zonfrillo. Some have shared their memories of Marco, others have commented on the impact of White Heat. The foreword is written by Albert Roux.

The book contains the following recipes:
Assiette of chocolate; basic mashed potato; basic pasta dough; basic wine stock; biscuit glaçé; blanquette of scallops and langoustines, with cucumber and ginger; braised pig’s trotter ‘Pierre Koffmann’; brunoise of ginger; chicken mousse; chicken stock; clarified butter; classic vinaigrette; confit of garlic or shallots; court-bouillon; cream vinaigrette; creamed watercress; crème plèissière; crispy fried leeks; escalope of salmon with basil; fettuccine of vegetables; feuilletine of sweetbreads; feuiletté of roast rabbit, spring vegetables, jus of coriander; fillet of sea bass with ratatouille and an essence of red peppers; fish stock; fish velouté; fresh tomato purée; fricassee of mushrooms; fricassee of sea scallops and calamares with ginger, sauce nero; gratin of red fruits; hot foie gras, lentilles de pays, sherry vinegar sauce; hot mango tart; julienne of orange zest; jus de langoustines ou d’homard; jus de nage; lemon tart; lentilles du pays; lobster with its own vinaigrette; Madeira sauce; nage of sole and langoustine with carrot; navarin of fish; noisettes of lamb en crepinette, fettuccine of vegetables, jus of tarragon; passion fruit soufflés; pâte à tulipe; peach melba; piece of Scotch beef, confit of shallots and garlic with a red wine and shallot sauce; pigeon en vessie with a tagliatelle of leeks and truffles, jus of thyme; potage of shellfish with truffle and leek; potato rosti; puff pastry; raspberry coulis; ravioli; ravioli of lobster with a beurre soy sauce; red mullet with citrus fruits; roast button onions; roast guinea fowl with wild mushrooms; roast pears with honey ice-cream; roast pigeon from Bresse with a ravioli of wild mushrooms with a fumet of truffles; salad of red mullet, sauce gazpacho; savarin of raspberries; spaghetti of carrots; stock syrup; sugar cage; sugared nuts; tagliatelle; tagliatelle of oysters with caviar; terrine of leeks and langoustines, water vinaigrette; tranche of calves’ liver with a sauce of lime; tuille baskets; turbot with baby leeks, a ravioli of scallops, choucroute of celery with a grain mustard sauce; veal stock; vegetable stock; woodcock, lentilles de pays, with a red wine sauce.

I miss Marco, I miss those days and all his restaurants, and I particularly miss the Mirabelle disco ball! <sighs>

You can get your copy of White Heat here >

Recipe

Saffron Jewelled Rice

As a pescetarian, vegetarian dishes are a substantial part of my diet, but when I need to feed a large number of people this is ideal, and is generally a crowd-pleaser. Because it’s one dish that’s fantastic to serve alone, with meat, or fish, it suits so many diets.  For our school Quiz Night {amazingly one of the highlights of the social calendar, as we’re all so laughably inept} I served it with Ottolenghi’s Saffron Chicken.

Jewelled rice is a Persian {Iranian} dish, usually saved for weddings and celebrations. Although mine is perhaps not the most authentic version, it seems there is no definitive recipe {or rather everyone thinks their version, is the definite version}.  I can’t even spot a consistent difference between the two names: Morasa and Javaher Polow – both seemingly meaning jewelled rice.

Amongst the dozens of recipes I’ve read, there appear to be two distinct variations: one which uses spices and saffron, and a whiter version which omits them.  Beyond that, I’ve seen every combination of ingredients and techniques.  A few remain common:  both nuts and dried fruit feature heavily, with the fruit usually being barberries. These are a sour berry not dissimilar to cranberries in appearance, but as I don’t always have them to hand, I’ve found dried physalis, and sour cherries to be a decent substitute.  The physalis particularly has a sour but plump effect.  The recipe which appealed to me the most came from the Amira site, and this is the one I’ve adapted.
Serves 8 comfortably

Ingredients:
600g long-grain basmati rice
Generous pinch of saffron threads
300g dried fruit (I used cherries, physalis, cranberry and blueberry)
4 shallots, finely chopped
2 tbsp olive oil
60g unsalted butter
A few fine julienne of carrot
Zest of 1 orange
1 cinnamon stick
seeds from 8 cardamon pods
2 tsp cumin seeds
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

To serve:
100g walnuts, roughly chopped
100g pistachios
seeds of a large pomegranate
Generous handful of parsley, chopped
1 garlic clove, very finely chopped

Method:

  • Run the basmati under water in a sieve to remove the excess starch, and the cover with cold water, setting it aside to soak for an hour
  • Cover the saffron with three tablespoons of orange blossom water, and leave to steep
  • Add the dried fruit to a small bowl, and barely cover in boiling water, leave to steep
  • After 30 minutes, add the oil and half the butter to a frying pan and set over a low heat.  Add the spices and the shallot, and soften gently for 30 minutes until the shallots are barely caramalised.  Turn off the heat.
  • Drain the rice into a large saucepan, and pour boiling water over the rice, until it comes approximately 3cm above the rice.  On a medium heat, boil the rice for 3 minutes, then drain and rinse under cold running water, draining well.
  • When cool, mix the basmati into the shallots, along with the carrot strips, orange zest, saffron infusion, the dried fruit, and their soaking water.  Season well with salt and pepper, and stir well.
  • Dot the surface of the rice with the remaining butter
  • Using a wooden spoon handle, make 5-6 holes through the rice, allowing it to steam evenly
  • Take a large piece of baking paper, scrunch it up, and soak in a little water.  Shake off the excess, and lay over the rice {as a cartouche}.  Cover the pan tightly with a damp tea towel, or sheet of foil, and set over a low heat.  Cook, undisturbed, for 40 minutes.  By this time your rice will be fluffy and a buttery crust will cover the bottom
  • While the rice is steaming, toast the nuts in a dry pan until they begin to smell ‘nutty’.  Tip into a large bowl, and stir in the parsley, orange zest, garlic, carrot strips and pomegranate seeds
  • Once the rice has cooked, remove the paper, and stir through the nut and herb mixture.  Serve the caramelised rice (the tah-dig) over the top.

I combine this dish with Ottolenghi’s Saffron Chicken, which also contains cardamom and oranges {one of my favourite combinations, as I’m sure you will have realised!}.  The two dishes have a number of ingredients in common, and echo each other very successfully.  I also took along a selection of hummus, with pitta breads toasted with a little olive oil, parsley and dukkah.  Our portable pudding was a bento box of fruit, and a few riciarelli {which though Italian, are not hugely dissimilar to Middle Eastern nut treats}.  And no.  We did not win!

Do let me know what your favourite version of Jewelled Rice is!

Jewelled Rice

Jewelled Rice

Jewelled Rice

Jewelled Rice

Jewelled Rice and Orange Chicken

Bento Boxes

Casa Bento has the most amazing selection of bento boxes, and ships worldwide

Journal

It’s all about the rhubarb…

It’s the end of January, and in the dark sheds of Yorkshire’s Rhubarb Triangle, there’s groaning in the gloomy dark… {And yes, I did say ‘Rhubarb Triangle’!} Forced rhubarb is a prized crop in the UK’s growing season, and actually has Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status under the European Commission’s Protected Food Name scheme. This is a serious business.

Before the rhubarb can be confined into its gloomy dark, it must first spend 2 years outside in the open, where it can absorb the sunlight and store it in its roots. After a brief exposure to frost, the rhubarb is re-planted inside the long and dark sheds to await its metamorphosis. There, in the warmth, it begins to creak into life, furtively growing upwards, putting all its energy into that tender pink stem as it tries to find the light. Indeed the harvesting process is carried out by candlelight, to ensure that no colour changes can take place. As I said, this is a serious business.

This lipstick pink vegetable {and yes, it’s a vegetable, not a fruit} is dominating my days at the moment! From rhubarb tarts to rhubarb cocktails, rhubarb creme patisserie, soufflé and ice-cream, candied rhubarb, rhubarb crumble – there will be no end until I’ve used every last stem I can find… Between it and the equally anticipated blood orange season, I shall be practically lipstick pink myself in a few weeks…

I first made this poached rhubarb for a tart, but I liked it so much, that I’ve made it several times since. It’s very versatile, you can use it in porridge, maybe with rice-pudding, over ice-cream – anything. Great to keep in the fridge for when you need a pink pick-me-up!

Ingredients:
juice of 3 to 4 blood oranges
100ml cranberry juice
seeds of 6 green cardamom pods
2 Tbsp Grand Marnier (optional)
3 stalks of rhubarb, cut into matching lengths

 
Method:

  • Chop your rhubarb into the required lengths, and if you have time, shock it in an ice bath to help retain the colour.
  • Combine all of the ingredients of the poaching liquor together, and bring to a boil.
  • Now. Having done this three times, and not being particularly attentive (!), I found that it was best if I brought the liquor to a boil and then turned it off! Put the rhubarb in, and set a timer for 5 minutes.
  • After 5 minutes, turn the rhubarb over. It won’t be tender at this stage, unless you’re using very tiny stalks. After the second five minutes, bring the liquor back to a boil, and immediately turn it off again! Turn the stalks after a further five minutes, then squidge them, as you might do a steak. If they feel nearly there, remove them immediately – they will continue to soften. This method will at least ensure your rhubarb does not disintegrate in the pan (as my first batch did).
  • If they’re still terribly firm, turn them over and wait a further five minutes. When just about tender, set aside the rhubarb, and reduce the liquor down to a thick and syrupy glaze.
  • Keep your rhubarb in a container in the fridge, soaking in the cooking liquor.

 

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