Plateau in Canary Wharf has always been a bit of a stalwart in the Wharf’s firmament, though arriving somewhat later than many of the restaurants. It boasts good views over the Wharf, a bar, grill, restaurant, and a glass encased kitchen which acts as a room divider. I’d eaten endlessly in Plateau when I lived in the Wharf, but hadn’t been back for some time – certainly not in the time of Allan Pickett, the current Head Chef. OboTheClown (sic), Valerie and I were looking for somewhere to meet up, and the one thing we all know the Wharf has is parking, very good transport links, and lots of eateries. It seemed like a good opportunity to revisit Plateau.
I began with an excellent crab salad, packed full of flavour from the brown crab, with the white crab meat adding a light delicate sweetness. The grapefruit adds acidity, and the watercress, salad and radish a peppery but refreshing bite.
 |
|
Cornish crab salad, pink grapefruit and brown crab mayonnaise
The rabbit loin was full of flavour, but a tad dry for me (we were eating after 2.30pm for lunch, which may just have had an impact), but the confit was absolutely delicious. All of the garnishes worked perfectly with the rabbit, the charred shallots adding a bitter-sweet note, and the soubise adding an umami depth to the dish.
|
 |
| Loin & confit of rabbit, white onion soubise, roast cauliflower and jus gras |
Couldn’t miss out dessert, especially when there were so many offerings! I went for the chocolate delice, as I’m working on a recipe at the moment and am looking for variations. This one was very rich and deep, and the coconut ice a perfect foil adding a different level of sweetness – the passionfruit puree spikes the palate and offsets some of the richness.
 |
| Marquise of bitter chocolate, coconut sorbet and passion fruit |
Overall the food was excellent, though I found the service a little haphazard. I rather suspect people remember the food, but are too busy with their client lunch to focus on the minutiae of the service. Obo said his lamb was exquisite, some of the best he’d had, and Valerie liked her rabbit… I definitely want to try the grill now that I’ve realised they have a Josper grill, and we will return.
Plateau
4th Floor Canada Place,
Canada Square,
Canary Wharf,
London E14 5ER
