1 Michelin Star

October 20, 2014 1 Michelin Star

Fera, at Claridges

I’m an unashamed fan of Fera – I’ve been several times now, and it’s one of my favourite places to eat. Though the dishes are multi-dimensional and intensely flavoured, there’s complete clarity of flavour. As a cook, I can also appreciate the variety of techniques employed, and though Mr Rogan is keen on his gadgets, their use never overshadows the dish.

Absurdly, even though it’s just won its first Michelin star, it’s easy to get a table at lunch time – do try an early walk-in. Fera is required to keep a number of tables free for the hotel, so it’s highly likely that you’ll be successful.

Benjamin Hofa was running the pass on this particular visit, and my pescatarian spanner barely caused a hiccup in service. For meat eaters, there’s plenty of variety in the menu, but the test of a decent kitchen, is coming up with suitable alternatives – and my dishes were comparable to Hubby’s.

Indeed, for me the joy of the menu is the sheer variety of vegetal ingredients. A kaleidescope of herbs have different effects on the palate, combinations can be combined to create lightness and vivacity, to cleanse the palate, or provide a hit of intense, savoury umami… Flowers aren’t just there for decoration, mushrooms can mimic flesh, and vegetables, pudding. I can feel that I’m losing some of you with that last statement, but ultimately the dishes are more than gimmicks, they’re simply delicious.

The proceedings always kick of with a selection of very tasty morsels…

February 15, 2013 1 Michelin Star

Galvin at Windows, Mayfair

Galvin at Windows, my favourite restaurant with a view… Perched high above London on top of the Hilton, it’s has enviable vistas from every window. The greatest joy is that no matter how many times you’ve been, you notice something new…

…

November 23, 2012 1 Michelin Star

Tom Kitchin, Edinburgh

We met Tom Kitchin at the Cube pop-up earlier in the year, and were seriously impressed by both the simplicity of his dishes, and the complexity of his flavours. Tom has years of classical training, and brings those skills to bear on the excellent seasonal produce close to his restaurant in Leith. Indeed such is the pride in the provenance of produce that diners are presented with a little map of Scotland detailing exactly where ingredients have been sourced…

We were in Scotland to shoot, and really wanted to take our American chums to Tom’s – they’re massive game fans, foodies and have travelled extensively in Scotland. I was travelling with my guns, and Kristen had nearly not been allowed on her flight, so by the time we met up in the bright glass-ceilinged bar we were all a little delirious with relief. Fortunately the manager, Holly Napoli took us under her wing, soothed our ruffled feathers and provided refreshment. We all chose the game tasting menu – it seemed the most appropriate selection given our trip – though I couldn’t help eyeing up all the gorgeous dishes of spoots being delivered around the restaurant – they were one of the highlights of our Cube dinner.

We began with a perfect pheasant consommé, clear, scented, highly flavoured, savoury and light. It’s impossible to describe the flavour, but there was a very slight nod to ‘stuffing’, so that the consommé immediately made me think of Willy Wonka – you’re given one thing, but it tastes of a whole meal – utterly delicious! It was dressed with a disk of pheasant, grapes, apple shards, a celeriac cream, and a crisp shard of pancetta. The fruit provided a bright and fresh note, with just a touch of acidity, and the bacon a little salty hit… A very lovely umami combination which I couldn’t help thinking would make the perfect starter on Christmas Day.

Then a venison carpaccio – the venison from the Wilton estate in Midlothian. The meat was clean, tender, full of flavour, and served with cubes of apple and croutons for texture and contrast, micro herbs, toasted pumpkin seeds, autumn vegetables, hazelnuts and a light, bright herb cream. Again an excellent combination of textures, flavours, and actually, temperatures.

In a nod to his mentor, Pierre Koffman, the next dish was a game pithivier. I’ve had Mr Koffman’s pithivier, and this was just as delicious. The filling included venison, mallard, and woodcock, and was served with a game jus, caramelised quince, and a quince puree. The pastry was perfectly crisp, and gave way to a dense, meaty filling – the not too-sweet quince acted as a perfect foil for the rich meat.

The next dish of mallard left us all pretty speechless. The meat was barely cooked, and served on top of a endive tart. My views on endive vary according to the dish, but here the caramelised bitter-sweet endive perfectly, perfectly complimented the duck, with its sweet beetroot and sour orange sauce. Again a dish had a foot in each sensory camp – bitter, sweet, sour, savoury, and a tiny hit of salt – the assembly of the dish undertaken with complete precision and balance. Kristen, who’s father is a massive hunter, kept saying that she wished she’d grown up eating game this way – apparently everything in her childhood had to be crumbed and fried – even elk… The mind boggles…

The most challenging dish for me was definitelty the woodcock, though I have eaten it before. I shot my first woodcock last year in Scotland, and the chef had pan-fried it (and a couple of others) for us all, very much like pigeon. In my conversations with Tom I’d promised to take on the full, traditional dish. The innards are chopped and served on a slice of toast, with the breast barely cooked on top – the head is then served on top of this, and the diner is invited to scoop out the brain. It’s accompanied by a celeriac puree and root vegetables. All of this was utterly delicious, but far more challenging for me personally was the salmis sauce – the remaining body parts are effectively crushed to make the sauce – a sauce so intensely meaty that I found it a little overwhelming. Having said that – the others absolutely loved it. And in case you’re wondering, the brain pops right out, like a miniature human brain, intact and exactly as you would imagine. The flavour and texture are quite creamy, and you’re encouraged to eat that piece first, so that you can appreciate the flavour – do give it a go!

Our final meat dish was a hare à la Royale – served with pumpkin puree, parsnip chips, chanterelles, salsify, wild watercress and pumpkin. The meat is slowly cooked in jus and enriched with foie gras, blood and truffles, and is topped with a loin of hare. The whole dish is incredibly rich, but is very much the climax of the meaty menu.

The palate cleanser of an Earl Grey sorbet is a welcome transition out of the main courses and into dessert – light, delicate, and fragrant, with a tiny piece of confit orange peel providing a little sweet and sour.

Dessert was an entirely unexpected pumpkin cheesecake, spiked with cinammon, and served with toasted pumpkin seeds, candied pecans, and a chocolate sorbet. Many years ago the 11yo had convinced me to make her a pumpkin pie, and it was so revolting that I’ve not eaten a pumpkin dessert since. With the slightly sour edge to the filling, and the fragrant cinnamon, this was absolutely delicious. Kristen is bringing me her favourite pumpkin puree from the US for our shooting rematch in a fortnight – so I’ll definitely be making this as a tribute dish.

The cooking at Tom Kitchin’s is very accomplished, grown-up and complete – ingredients are allowed to shine, and are treated with respect. The staff are charming, very well informed about the dishes, and attentive. This is undoubtedly one of the most memorable meals we’ve eaten, and we can’t wait to return.

The Kitchin: 78 Commercial Quay, Leith EH6 6LX (0131) 555 1755

November 13, 2012 1 Michelin Star

Truffles at Alyn Williams…

Forget Keat’s ‘time of mellow fruitfulness‘, I want his ‘season of mists’. For me it signifies a time of abundant fungi, and particularly truffles. I look forward to fresh alba truffles from Piedmont, and black truffles from Périgord… I’ve been using summer truffles for months, and can’t wait for some of their more heavily scented cousins to arrive… Until the supply kicks-in in earnest, Hubby and I have been seeking out the first of the new season offerings on Alyn Williams‘ truffle tasting menu.

Alyn has fed me so many firsts this year, and is the only chef who’s had me buying gulls eggs, and eel, to cook at home – that’s my idea of an inspirational cook. As a result we were delighted when he received his first Michelin star recently, and won the National Chef of the Year competition a few days later

On this occasion the room was full of truffle aficionado’s – though this shouldn’t put you off – a truffle tasted for the first time is just as enjoyable as the last… There’s something in the scent, the (almost) melt-in-the-mouth texture which will leaves you wanting more. Truffles are rumoured to be addictive, but apparently some people are just more susceptible to their charms than others… Here the dishes were so varied that it wasn’t a case of sensory overload, but of a steady appreciation of precious and highly seasonal ingredients.

Sweetcorn might seem an unusual vehicle for truffles, but having had sweetcorn chowder spiked perfectly with lemongrass at Eleven Madison Park, I’ve come to appreciate its sweet simplicity anew. There was a smooth silky sweetcorn puree beneath the ravioli, and a scattering of crunchy fresh kernels. The scallop ravioli itself was light and delicate, with shaved alba truffle on top.

Scallop ravioli, sweet corn, white truffle

Jerusalem artichoke panna cotta is smooth and silky, with a rich dense foie grass mousse piped on top – both have earthy deep flavours, and the truffle and lemon compote on the glass provide a fragrant highlight to the two components. Interestingly the pairing of foie gras and artichoke brings out a green note in the panna cotta, a contrast which was literally mouth-watering – a great play with umami flavours.

Foie gras mousse, Jerusalem artichoke, black truffle, chickweed

The quail breast was perfectly cooked, pink, and the legs kofta were delicately spiced with dukka (an Arabic or Egyptian spice mixture). The veloute, again rich and earthy – echoed the continuing autumnal theme – but also echoing the sweetness of the sauternes preserved alba truffles.

Spiced quail, chestnut gnocchi, pumpkin velouté,
marigold flowers and preserved white truffle

A variation of the smoked egg has been on the menu before, and Alyn’s truffled soldiers were one of the first things I ate at the restaurant when it opened. Here they make a very welcome return, with the slight acidity of the creme fraiche at the bottom of the dish offsetting the richness of the egg.

Smoked egg, with truffled soldiers

Silky coco beans wrapped in a creamy veloute, with soft cod, each distinct in their own way, with finely grated alba truffle – heavenly. The ventreche (pancetta, pork belly, whichever you prefer) provides a little salty crisp. Yes, the cod does have that slightly raw texture you get when cooking in this way, but I’m eating it so often this way at the moment that I barely noticed it.

Slow cooked cod, coco beans, white truffle, Ventreche, casserole

Oh my word… See that little slip of mushroom puree, there in the front? With my finger print in it? Yes… That’s because it’s one of my favourite things ever – pure umami, richly intense, perfect in every way. The beef was tender, there were tiny croutons providing crunchy bursts of sauce-soaked texture, which was rich with madeira and demi-glace. To top it all (and make it a sauce perigourdine), fresh truffles were shaved over the dish at the table.

Devon Ruby beef, sauce perigourdine,
ceps, (and separately, pommes mousseline)

Inevitably there’s always one dish that I begin to eat before I photograph it – and here it was because the smell from the vanilla in the rice pudding and the truffle was quite intoxicating. Your brain can’t quite rationalise the pairing, but your palate is telling you to shut up and eat it! Very unusual combination, the texture of the truffle is slightly incongruous with the soft, sweet grains of rice, but hey, the flavour and scent more than make up for that.

(Partially eaten) Vanilla, white truffle, Devon cream, rice pudding

All my notes say is that pear and truffle are amazing together. No more than that, but with a number of exclamation points. There was a catalan cream, smooth and light, with a pear granita, and softly poached pear… The pine adds an additional spike in the scent, and the sugar shard further texture.

Pear, pine, crème Catalan, black truffle sugar

The real skill in this menu is combining so many truffle elements, whilst remaining true to each dish as an individual entity. Truffles were served in a myriad of ways, and eating at Alyn’s as often as we do, it’s very evident that his menu’s are improving, his experimentation is paying off, and his palate is excellent. (And he gave me a little bit of my favourite miso eel at the beginning of the meal. I could eat that forever!)

This truffle menu is available for a limited time at £180 per head (though having just been to a restaurant where the supplement was £70 per dish, it certainly isn’t overpriced!) The restaurant also offers a tasting menu at £60 per head, and a lunch menu at £25 for three courses. With inspired service from the lovely Gian-Carlo Princi, and a glittery carpet – what more could you ask for?

Alyn Williams at the Westbury
37 Conduit Street
The Westbury Mayfair Hotel
London W1S 2YF

November 8, 2012 1 Michelin Star

Angler, South Place Hotel, Moorgate

At last the talented Tony Fleming has launched Angler, at the newly opened South Place Hotel. As Executive Chef Tony is responsible for several spaces in the hotel, including three bars, all the private dining, and two restaurants. Angler sits upstairs and has it’s own outside terrace – so you’ll know where to find me next summer… It even has a summer kitchen, so that some foods can be prepared outside. We sat towards the back of the restaurant, where one of the tables overlooks the kitchen. From there you can see all of the action, and the precision with which they plate at the pass.

The basic premiss of the restaurant, as it’s name might denote, is the provision of spankingly fresh, seasonable and sustainable fish and shellfish. There are meat dishes on the menu too, and as some seasonal variations come into play, such as game, they will feature alongside their piscine counterparts.

My cherrystone clam was offered as an alternative to the oyster that Hubby immediately downed! At the time we visited, Angler had Colchester Natives, Mersea Rocks and Irish Rocks – unfortunately I’m unable to eat oysters, but the clam packed an equally ozone punch, with a fresh light texture and flavour.

Cherrystone clam, raw, with shallot vinegar

This tiny cheesy biscuit, offered just as a nibble, is packed full of flavour, like an incredibly intense cheese straw. I tried to photograph the many crisp layers, but they’re so fine I couldn’t capture them adequately. It’s made with Montgomery cheddar and I want the recipe… You can see just how short the pastry is from my photo.

A little cheese biscuit – delicious!

The shellfish bisque is fine, velvety, light, but packed full of flavour. Whilst the depth of shellfish used in the bisque is evident, it doesn’t feel as though they’ve ground down everything on the counter – a problem I often encounter. We shared a cup between us, but I would happily have eaten a bowl of this.

Shellfish bisque

Chorizo paired with shellfish was incredible, very intense and meaty, yet not overwhelming the razor clams and mussels. I’ve become a bit of a razor clam addict since having them cooked by Mr Kitchin earlier in the year, and these were a little over for my taste, but then the best I’ve had (at Cinq) were practically raw. I think it may rather depend on your own particular tastes.

Razor clam, chorizo, mussel and breadcrumbs

Hubby had the shellfish cocktail, which you can see is packed full, the radish and watercress add a peppery kick to the proceedings, and Hubby declared the dressing lovely.

Shellfish cocktail, with prawns, brown shrimp and langoustine

My scallop and lobster ravioli was delicious – the pasta was wafer-thin, but packed full of shellfish. The buerre blanc was pretty stellar – this is the point of Angler, classical techniques applied to the best possible ingredients. The sauce was light, but rich, buttery, lightly spiked with chives, and perfectly complimented the packed ravioli. Breaking into it reveals large chunks of shellfish, wrapped in a light and delicate mousse.

Scallop and lobster ravioli, with samphire and beurre blanc

Hubby wanted to try the Angler pie, with market fish, and chunks of lobster. The whole thing was topped with piped mashed-potato, golden on top, and eliciting admiring glances from customers and staff alike… Hubby was convinced that he’d never manage to finish it, but it disappeared without trace. The pie contains meaty chunks of monkfish and lobster.

Angler and lobster pie, with button mushrooms and mashed potato

I opted for the bass with sauce vierge – one of my favourite flavours. I wouldn’t have chosen the bass ordinarily, as often it’s ruined, but I’m glad I did. It was steamed over a bamboo steamer, and perfectly, perfectly cooked. The fish was dressed with salad, with the sauce vierge in a little copper pot to the side. The fish sat on crushed potatoes which had been laced with crab, an amazing combination which I will definitely play with at home.

Steamed wild bass, with crushed potatoes, sauce vierge and a herb salad

Alongside it I had a heritage tomato salad, which included some amazing orange tomatoes – I must find out the variety. The overall combination was light and bright, satisfying, but not too rich.

Hubby also ordered a side of triple cooked chips. I have a strange rule – I’ll never eat a chip first – I find that all you then crave is salt and fat – they ruin your palate. However I will sometimes try one after I’ve eaten my meal, and these were still crisp, crunch and amazing! I wonder whether I can apply that rule in future…

Late summer tomatoes, with red onions and olive oil

The pre-dessert was a concoction of passionfruit curd, wrapped in a light lime espuma. Though a nod to the El Bulli reversed poached egg, this was a much more accessible version – the ‘yolk’ hadn’t been created through spherification, so didn’t have the ‘shell’ you normally associate with that process. It came with crisp shards of coconut which had been spiced warmly – the whole combination was delicious, crisp, light, but with a little heat.

Passion fruit and coconut sable, with spiced coconut,
lime espuma and passion fruit curd yolk

Hubby was unable to contemplate a pudding following his mammoth pie, but I know what to expect from Mr Fleming’s kitchen, and I wasn’t about to forgo that pleasure. I opted for the chocolate fondant, with a milk ice-cream on a bed of chocolate rubble. The fondant spilled over my plate in the expected manner, but the shell was so light, fine and crisp, I’m amazed they don’t rupture when handled. Excellent depth of chocolate flavour too.

Chocolate fondant, with chocolate rubble, and milk ice-cream

It’s no surprise that I enjoyed my meal, I was a regular diner at Axis when Tony was in residence… The difference with South Place is that, actually, it doesn’t feel like a hotel at all. With so many dining and drinking spaces, the whole atmosphere is very buzzy, and feels like a private club – indeed, very like a gleaming modernistic Home House. I had an excellent martini in one of the bars before making my way upstairs. There are places to hide – places to be seen – private rooms rather appropriately named after spies in Bond, U.N.C.L.E. and The Avengers… Add to that an excellent kitchen with a solid brigade of well trained chefs, and it’s going to be a winner.

I love Mr Fleming’s new home, and look forward to returning very soon.

Pictures from 12th December 2012, the tuna tartar and sole meunière were delicious!

Foie, duck and artichoke terrine with brioche and aged Madeira jelly

Crab raviolo, with shellfish foam

Foie gras and chicken liver parfait

Yellow-fin tuna tartar, with chilli and lime

Daily mixed grill

Dover sole meunière, with béarnaise sauce

The Angler
South Place Hotel
3 South Place
London EC2M 2AF
020 7215 1260

August 20, 2012 1 Michelin Star

Land and Sea, Tom Kitchin at The Cube

Perched high above the South Bank, The Cube pop-up was sponsored by Electrolux. Many of our favourite chefs, including Daniel Clifford, Simon Rogan and the very lovely Tom Kitchin held weekly court at The Cube for several months in 2012, providing a snapshot of their usual menu.

We were particularly keen to fit in Mr Kitchin, who showcased his Land and Sea menu tasting menu. As a protégé of Pierre Koffmann, there were lots of classical recipes which showcased the excellent seasonal produce close to his restaurant in Leith.

We are huge fans of Tom’s, and also ate his game tasting menu when we visited Edinburgh later in the year. An exceptionally talented chef, his food’s simplicity belies the level of execution and precision – Tom is very definitely on our favourites list.

(A small aside – the last time I had the baked scallop dish was when Pierre Koffmann still had La Tante Claire… On that occasion the shell was opened at the table to reveal a sauce studded with cubes of truffle – the scent was utterly exceptional!)

Chilled fennel soup

Isle of Bute Shellfish Rockpool

Arisaig razor clams (spoots), chorizo, lemon confit, sorrel

Hand-dived Orkney scallops

Pig’s head and langoustine

Hay-baked Dornoch lamb, with girolles

Edinburgh gin, blackberries, Chambord

Lemon tart, lemon macaron, crème fraiche sorbet, raspberries and oatmeal

Carrot cake

The Kitchin
78 Commercial Quay,

Leith EH6 6LX

(0131) 555 1755

July 2, 2012 1 Michelin Star

The Royal Oak in Paley Street…

The Royal Oak is a quaint Michelin starred pub out in Paley Street, close to Ascot, Marlow and Bray. The chef, Dominic Chapman comes to the Oak via the Hinds Head at Bray, and the manager, Mo Gherras is ex Petrus.

Lots of my chums had been to the Royal Oak at Paley Street, and I was very happy when Steve Whitelock suggested we meet there.

Scotch egg and rabbit on toast

The rabbit on toast is excellent, exactly the sort of rich delicacy to kick your tastebuds into action, especially with the piquant chive and gherkin garnishes. The scotch egg had to be divided very carefully between us, because it was so good that we both wanted our share. You can see that the yolk is perfectly cooked, and the egg was properly seasoned. A great start to lunch.

Scotch egg and rabbit on toast

I began with a stuffed courgette flower – very carefully handled. The main body of the courgette perfectly cooked, without rendering the stuffed flower soggy. The light and fresh garnishes perfectly complemented the summery dish, adding both texture, acidity and sweetness – this was echoed by the artichoke and roast beetroot.

Courgette flower, artichoke, beetroot, pine nuts peas and raisins

Another perfect summer lunch offering – sea salmon with braised lettuce in the lightest buttery sauce. The leek and lettuce were barely braised, the chervil added a lovely aniseed note, the peas sweetness and the radishes texture. I’d be very happy to eat this dish in Mayfair, I’d be very happy to find this dish in Mayfair – here is just seems perfectly in keeping with the natural surroundings.

Sea salmon, braised lettuce, peas, morels and radish

We all know I’m a soufflé obsessive, and a good raspberry soufflé is a joy! I often make the Marco Pierre White one at home, and consider it one of my top three soufflés. This absolutely did not disappoint – the precision of the cooking was excellent – and it was perfectly baveuse!

Souffle of raspberries

Little petit fours were well made, packed full of flavour, and the perfect way to end the meal.

The Royal Oak is a great little pub, except it’s more than that – it’s a good Michelin starred restaurant. The quality of the cooking is precise, measured, the ingredients carefully chosen and of undoubted quality. Real effort has been shown, and I’d happily take anyone here. Oh, and it has a garden – perfect for a summers day in the English countryside.

Petit fours: chocolates with pistachio and
hazelnut, mango gelee, biscuit with caramel nut

The entrance area

The dining room, taken from the bar

Royal Oak
Paley Street

Maidenhead

Berkshire
Berkshire SL6 3JN

June 12, 2012 1 Michelin Star

Harwood Arms…

The Harwood Arms is the perfect kind of local pub. Set in a nondescript street in Fulham, it looks completely unassuming and decidedly local. People were popping in and out all afternoon, and from what I saw, the majority appeared to be on foot and knew the staff well. The interior is all stripped down wood and feels airy, and light. However, a quick glance under the bonnet reveals a much racier engine – Harwood is actually a joint collaboration between Mike Robinson, chef patron of the Pot Kiln pub out in Berkshire, and Brett Graham of the Ledbury.

I’d been speaking to a well known food blogger and @Hermanoprimero on twitter for a while now – we’re all techies, we’re of a similar age, and we’re all obsessed with food. I thought it would be fun to organise a lunch, so when one of them suggested we meet there, it seemed like a very good choice. I’ve eaten Mike’s venison before (some of the best I’ve ever had), and The Ledbury is one of my favourite restaurants in London.

The man currently behind the stoves at is Barry Fitzgerald, who’d previously worked at Arbutus and Honey. He recently took over the mantle from Stevie Williams, who’d made the Harwood Arms the only Michelin starred pub in London.

We began with an amazing venison scotch egg – crispy panko breadcrumbs, delicious meat, perfect egg. I think the picture speaks for itself…

Venison Scotch egg

I had the Cornish crab on toast, with a chilled courgette and basil soup. The soup was packed full of flavour (and not too courgetty actually), a bowl of green seasonality, with spiky basil, and clean herby flavours. The crab toast was delicious! The light white meat on the top was delicate and sweet, but the bottom of the toast contained a rich layer of brown meat. It wasn’t just that the brown meat was packed full of flavour, it tasted as though it had actually been dressed in a reduction of shellfish. It tasted of the best bisque, a sort of ground shell intensity that worked perfectly on the toast and was a perfect foil for the verdant soup.

Cornish crab on toast, with edible flowers

Chilled courgette and basil soup, with Cornish crab on toast

Next I had the plaice – perfectly cooked fish, lightly dressed vegetables, salty samphire, sweet baby gem lettuce. A lovely dish, clean and yet packed full of flavour.

Roast plaice on the bone, with smoked potato, baby gem and potted shrimp butter

There were lots of amazing puddings on offer, but I’m a bit addicted to sea buckthorn after my travels to Paul Foster at Tuddenham Mill, so there was no way I was going to turn down any dish that contained it. In this case there were perfect tiny doughnuts, dusted in sugar and cinnamon. The sea buckthorn came as dipping sauce, and also mixed with sour cream. Light and fresh, they complimented each other perfectly.

Brown sugar doughnuts, with sea buckthorn curd and sour cream

The staff at the Harwood Arms, headed by Alex Sergeant, were charming and attentive. We were there for hours talking about all manner of things, and they kept us topped up, fed and watered in a friendly but unobtrusive way. The food is of very good quality, and well executed. Actually I think it’s very good value too – I wish I lived next to the Harwood, it would definitely be my local – I wish it could be my local… As it is, it’s definitely going on my regulars list.

@Hermanoprimero‘s Lunch

Warm salad of wood pigeon, with
creamed livers, bitter leaves and turnips

Cheek and jowl of Middlewhite portk,
with celeriac, white cabbage and crackling

Fresh mint ice-cream with Harwood Arms bournon biscuits

The other lunch…

Chicken live pate, with spiced chutney,
chicory and caramelised onion bread

Slow cooked neck of roebuck, with
creamed celeriac, wild mushrooms and horseradish

Raspberry and blackberry trifle,
with sherry sponge and brandy snaps
(and yes, it really is that colour!)

Harwood Arms
27 Walham Grove
Fulham

London SW6 1QP

@HarwoodArms

April 18, 2012 1 Michelin Star

Alyn WIliams, Mayfair

Alyn has quickly become one of my favourite chefs, but sometimes there isn’t sufficient opportunity to record each dish in great depth – in this instance we had hot-footed our way from the Gaucho Polo Tournament at the O2, and arrived at the Westbury after 10pm, with guests in tow. Alyn had very kindly put together a number of dishes for us, and they were so delicious that I want to record them here, if only visually. For the full Alyn Williams experience you need to head to the Westbury Hotel for yourself, for what I still think is one of the best-valued menus in town at just £55.

Langoustine, grapefruit curd, sea beets, served on hay…

Mackerel, with squid ink craquelure, piquillo red pepper and ricotta

Gull’s egg, with ransom leaf, nettle compote, braised snails, and veal tail cooked in buttermilk

Asparagus, wild hops, salmon and beer

Oxtail, beef, pureed beetroot, mustard foam, ransoms, croutons

Mash

Cheesecake, passion fruit granita, honeycomb

Lemon posset, caramel, caramel malteser and plum jelly

Blush cider sorbet, rhubarb jelly, sorbet, gold leaf

Rhubarb Muffins

Black olive, and pistachio

Alyn Williams at the Westbury
37 Conduit Street
The Westbury Mayfair Hotel
London W1S 2YF

February 21, 2012 1 Michelin Star

The Lanesborough, Belgravia

Breakfast number two of the week and today the venue is the Lanesborough on Hyde Park Corner. An impressive 19th century building which is now a small, but luxurious hotel, in the heart of London. Originally built as a hospital (St. Georges) in the 18C, it was demolished and rebuilt in 1827 by William Wilkins. The hospital itself transferred to Tooting in 1980, and the building fell into disrepair until 1991 when it was refurbished and re-opened, and now is arguably the most expensive hotel in London.

I’ve been here many times before, though I’ve never stayed overnight, and I’ve certainly enjoyed the hospitality of the restaurants and bars – the library bar is a favourite of mine. On entering the hotel I’n directed to Apsleys, the restaurant. Taken over by Heinz Beck in 2009, it is his first restaurant outside of Italy and was awarded a Michelin star in 2010 (the fastest for a London restaurant at the time).

The last time I was here was for dinner before the refurbishment, then, it was a colonial style greenhouse with pastille coloured 80’s styling, with a very loud piano playing in the centre – we expected to find George Michael and Andrew Ridgeley hiding behind the palms with fake tans and shorts. Now it has the feeling of a light, open, Italian venue, with a Titian-esque artwork as a centrepiece. I assume this is to announce the ‘rebirth’ of the restaurant itself (although for some reason the artwork has go-faster stripes).

The menu is extensive and they even encourage you to be creative and go ‘off menu’. Given my recent disappointment, I know I’m going to go down the Eggs Benedict route again. The orange juice is already in the waiters’ hands, so I accept the invitation and give my order.

I assume the go-faster stripes on the centrepiece give the illusion that orders are being handled much more quickly than they are, and we wait what seems to be an age. All three of us have ordered eggs, so I assume only one egg chef is on, or they are out the back squeezing a couple from the chicken. Finally, the dishes arrive. Again the food looks great, though as I found to my cost yesterday, looks can be deceiving. I look more closely…

Two nicely formed poached eggs on top of an abundance of ham, and one half of a largish muffin. A decent, but not overwhelming amount of hollandaise with a pinch of paprika. My knife glides through the egg revealing a medium cooked egg with a yolk that flows down over the ham and muffin, but is not indiscreet enough to damage the texture of either. The ham is a honey roast ham, organically sourced, and full of flavour; and the muffin is nice and fluffy. The hollandaise, is creamy, but could do with just a touch more acidity – but I feel I’m splitting hairs now.

I enjoy the venue, the eggs Benedict were good. The service, other than waiting for too long, was fine and I leave in good humour – joking with the staff as I leave. One tells me his favourite egg joke:

How do Monsters like their eggs cooked – Terri-fried.

Update:

I had breakfast again this morning, and things have definitely deteriorated since my last visit. Eggs were undercooked, the staff kept trying to sell us pastries every five minutes and I had to ask for juice three times. A glass of grapefruit juice finally arrived, but had been watered down. I also had to ask for a cup of coffee twice, and finally got it at the end of the meal. The bill also had to be requested three times! 17/9/12