3 Michelin Stars

May 13, 2015 3 Michelin Stars

Le Bernardin, New York

It’s been a busy week in New York, but the one place I really wanted to eat was Le Bernardin in Midtown. Holding three Michelin Stars, the Executive Chef and co-owner is Eric Ripert, best buddy of Anthony Bourdain, and host of a variety of TV shows. My favourite quote of Bourdain’s referencing Eric is this: “There are certain people in your life who call you up at 4 o’clock in the morning and say meet me on the corner of Avenue D and 4th Street, and bring a hand gun, and a stolen car, a tarpaulin and duct tape – you don’t ask why – you just go!”

Eric is classically trained, and has

I bought my first Eric Ripert book in 2006, and have been a huge fan ever since – both in print and via the various tv shows on which he appears. I even have a little video on my Journal page demonstrating his caviar Croque Monsieur... {Yes, you read that right}

But Le Bernardin prompts such funny reactions amongst my peers – everything from ‘over-priced’, to just a ‘little dull’…

What’s wrong with people? I found it absolutely perfect – I love that the menu concentrates on fish, and does it flawlessly! I love that the menu is broken down into Almost Raw, Barely Touched, and Lightly Cooked…

The front of house team are charming, professional, courteous, and well-informed. The room is wood-panelled, large and airy, and on my visit frequented by the likes of Tobey Maguire {with a very bushy beard, actually…}. The food is absolutely divine – the mussel broth served with my king fish was one of the most delicious things I’ve had – and you leave feeling as light as a feather, but completely satisfied. Also, given that this week we’ve eaten at Per Se and 11 Madison Park {again}, I think Le Bernardin is stonking value.

If you can’t get into the main restaurant, the lovely chaps will let you eat the main menu in the lounge, which serves customers on a first-come-first-served basis. If you like your fish, just trust me, go down and try it for yourself. If you’re a Londoner, again, trust me – this is as good as any fish I’ve eaten in London, being almost the perfect combination of Japanese and French sensibilities. I’ll ensure it’s on my list every single time I return to New York.

Salmon Rillette, with toast

Warm King Fish “Sashimi”; Osetra Caviar, Light Marinière Broth

Pan Roasted Monkfish; Sautéed Cepes, Pearl Onions à la Crème Paprika Sauce

Pan Roasted Lobster; Baby Leeks, Sunchoke Purée, Red Wine “Sauce Américaine”

Flourless Hazelnut Cake, Gianduja Mousse, Orange Curd, Praline Ice Cream

Financiers

April 13, 2013 3 Michelin Stars

Sant Pau, Spain

Sant Pau, the flagship of Carme Ruscalleda, is based in the small town of Sant Pol de Mar, just north of Barcelona. Right on the sea, the restaurant’s raison d’être is seasonality and local produce, though often cooked in unexpected ways. Carme also runs a restaurant in Tokyo, and her strong Japanese influences are palpable. When we visited, the restaurant was celebrating the 9th anniversary of the Toyko opening, and a number of dishes originated at the Tokyo San Pau.

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October 16, 2012 3 Michelin Stars

l’Arpège in Paris…

l‘Arpège is the tiny Lalique-panneled restaurant owned by the legendary Alain Passard. In 2001 Monsieur Passard declared that he would be be focussing on a more vegetable driven menu, but more importantly a seasonal, home-grown menu.

This statement seems to have lost something in translation, because in 2012 it seems perfectly reasonable, indeed appropriate. But in Paris a decade ago, turning your back on a very protein-heavy menu, seems to have caused considerable ripples. Alain had held three Michelin stars since 1996, but maintained those stars after swapping over to his new style – clearly the inspectors felt that the standards were maintained.

Alain does offer protein on the menu, but the objective is to strip dishes back to showcase ingredients grown in the restaurant’s gardens North of Paris.

I can still ‘taste’ certain dishes in my mind – most notably the incredibly simple gratin of parmesan, onion and candied lemon… When Alain popped up to ask which dishes I liked, I said this one, because I had wanted to lick the plate clean (I mimed this to him – after all it was an umami addicts dream!) – he became very enthusiastic, nodding vigorously – clearly I had understood…

Also sensational was the lemon puree served with the roast beetroot – exquisite earthiness and smooth citrus. Tiny details make the difference, and Alain ran into the room to grate fresh horseradish over the veal, running back out again to dress another dish. The horseradish added a sharp, fresh piquancy which lifted the dish.

Though my photographs are appalling, you can see his minimalistic style clearly. Never before have I been served a quarter of a lobster tail – but Monsieur Passard is right – I didn’t actually need any more than this.

A small note of caution – the prices are a little eye-watering, even for us. Care needs to be taken with alcohol: two gin and tonics came in at €50, though two glasses of dessert wine were €17… Having said that, we would definitely return. Eye-watering prices or not, some of those dishes were amongst the most memorable dishes we’ve eaten, and I defy you not to want to lick that parmesan gratin from the dish…