London

May 2, 2012 Peruvian

Ceviche, Soho

Some months ago I attended the pisco fuelled launch of Martin Morales’ Ceviche. I’d been following Martin’s progress for months on twitter, and as a ceviche addict was particularly looking forward to getting my hands on some great raw fish. That night we found ourselves at the far end of the room and very little food made it to our table – as the waiting staff piled trays high with succulent beef, and raw fish, greedy hands grabbed at dishes as soon as they entered the room. They did manage to get great glasses of pisco to us, and bottles of beer, and we quickly divided up any morsels which did survive long enough to reach us. These morsels merely whetted my appetite, and it took some weeks before I was able to get a booking to try Ceviche for myself.

Making our way into the bright and cheerful room, @clareangela, @obotheclown and I were full of anticipation. We looked at the menu – it all looked so good! We decided to grab a number of dishes to share, so that we could try as much as possible.

My companions began with Cancha, crunchy Peruvian salted corn kernels, which they said tasted nothing like our popcorn kernels, despite looking like that. They thought they were very flavoursome.

Don Ceviche is a seabass ceviche in ají amarillo chilli, tiger’s milk, ají limo chilli, and red onions. Ají is the chilli element of the ceviche, and the tigers milk is the resulting citrus liquor, which includes lime juice. The dish is topped with crunchy sweet potato. The sea bass was meaty and fresh, and perfectly acidic. You will need to order more than one portion if there are a few of you though, as you won’t want to share.

In the background of that picture is also Sakura Maru – not strictly Peruvian but more of a Japanese influenced ceviche of sliced salmon in Nikkei tiger’s milk, made with satsumas, mirin, soy sauce and ají limo chilli. Again refreshing and moreish.

Causa Santa Rosa came as a beetroot salad, with Peruvian potatoes, coriander, with an olive sauce – smooth, clean, creamy, tangy – with crunchy deep fried sweet potatoes on top. Surprisingly addictive – given how creamy it looks – it’s a very refreshing salad. I don’t think the others liked this as much as me, but I found it a very good foil for the acidity of the ceviche.

Next, the meatier dishes – first rump steak marinated in ají panda chilli, anticucho sauce with grilled potato slices – tender, spicy and meaty, the beef disappeared as quickly as it arrived. It was a funny lunch, all having quite different food upbringings, we kept comparing dishes to things we’d eaten as children. Obo, reminisced about the beef of his childhood. We also had Arroz con Mariscos – seafood rice with pisco, ají amarillo chilli, rocoto chilli and red peppers.
When we moved onto Lomo Saltado (wok cooked slices of beef fillet, red onions, tomatoes, ají amarillo chilli, chips and salt ado sauce) Clare tried to educate me into the Northern thing about chips and gravy. As someone who hates gravy at the best of times, and certainly doesn’t want it on my chips, it was a bit of a moot point for me. The vegetables and the beef were yummy, but I can’t see myself taking up meaty soaked chips any time soon. Clare, however, had a small look of bliss on her face.

We finished with a lúcuma ice-cream – mainly because I insisted they try it. I’d had it that mad pisco-fuelled night, and just remember being blown away by the similarity of ice cream made with fresh lúcuma fruit pulp to our own butterscotch pudding flavour. Completely impossible to describe, the similarities between lúcuma fruit and butterscotch is amazing – I kept trying to convince our waitress that we had something similar but I don’t think she believed me.Ceviche is a great place to go for some casual fresh food with chums. There’s a pisco bar at the front serving tapas style dishes – so whether I’m looking for a quick plate of clean food for myself, or a relaxed environment to share dishes – Ceviche is going on my regular list.

Ceviche,
17 Frith St
London W1D 4RG

April 18, 2012 1 Michelin Star

Alyn WIliams, Mayfair

Alyn has quickly become one of my favourite chefs, but sometimes there isn’t sufficient opportunity to record each dish in great depth – in this instance we had hot-footed our way from the Gaucho Polo Tournament at the O2, and arrived at the Westbury after 10pm, with guests in tow. Alyn had very kindly put together a number of dishes for us, and they were so delicious that I want to record them here, if only visually. For the full Alyn Williams experience you need to head to the Westbury Hotel for yourself, for what I still think is one of the best-valued menus in town at just £55.

Langoustine, grapefruit curd, sea beets, served on hay…

Mackerel, with squid ink craquelure, piquillo red pepper and ricotta

Gull’s egg, with ransom leaf, nettle compote, braised snails, and veal tail cooked in buttermilk

Asparagus, wild hops, salmon and beer

Oxtail, beef, pureed beetroot, mustard foam, ransoms, croutons

Mash

Cheesecake, passion fruit granita, honeycomb

Lemon posset, caramel, caramel malteser and plum jelly

Blush cider sorbet, rhubarb jelly, sorbet, gold leaf

Rhubarb Muffins

Black olive, and pistachio

Alyn Williams at the Westbury
37 Conduit Street
The Westbury Mayfair Hotel
London W1S 2YF

February 29, 2012 British

Axis, Aldwych

It’s best if I declare that I’ve been talking to Tony Fleming, the Executive Chef at Axis, for months now. In those conversations we’ve established that over the years I’ve been following Tony around London. I’ve eaten in almost every restaurant he’s has cooked in, and that list includes the Criterion, the Oak Room, Escargot, Richard Neat and the Great Eastern Hotel. When we did finally speak, it was because Tony appeared on ITV’s Britain’s Best Dish cooking a blackberry soufflé… Well. I’m a bit of a soufflé obsessive, so it was inevitable that this would be the thing that would draw us into conversation.

Since then I’ve been meaning to get into Axis to try Tony’s food circa 2012. As well as running Axis, the fine dining restaurant at No. One Aldwych, he also runs Indigo, and all of the food within the hotel. This is a daunting task given that the menu at Axis is updated frequently, and the hotel has a number of regular guests who would spot any repetitiveness. Fortnightly there’s also the monthly Movie Night, where you can watch a film in the hotel’s private cinema, and then have a fixed menu dinner in the restaurant – the menu changes each time and is seasonal.

You enter Axis on the very corner of No. 1 Aldwych, then descend down the giant marble spiralling staircase, down into the rabbit hole… On one side there are large metal tree trunks running along the side, and there are eating areas on two levels, in two giant circles echoed by the circular balcony. I like the space, though I don’t like the decor – that Art Deco interior would be the absolute ideal setting for some fabulous smoke filled Poirot set – but I digress…

We ate from a menu that was just a few days old, and following some consultation about what was proving popular. To whet our appetite we were given a tiny tartlett of goats cheese with anchovies, tangy, sharp, piquant anchovy with rich and savoury onion. There was also a plump langoustine served scampi style, like the scampi you always dream of, but rarely find, served in a little pool of intense tartare sauce.

The Hubby chose the scallops first, plump little spheres served on a chunky strip of Asian style pork belly. This sits on a cauliflower purée, with fine slices of raw cauliflower dressed in rock salt and olive oil. The pork belly is marinated in soy sauce, honey, citrus, cinnamon and 5 spice. It’s then finished in the pan with the sticky sauce drizzled over the dish. I was quite torn between that dish and my own…

I ordered the duck egg with truffle soldiers. The egg is served on a bed of onion jam – it had that savoury cheek-sucking intensity that can only be achieved through long and slow reduction, in this case in brown chicken jus. Around the dish were scattered shemiji and pied bleu mushrooms, with peppery intense watercress. And the piece de resistance, the perfectly fried duck egg was placed on the top of the disc of onions, and then scattered with shaved truffles. To the side were crisp brioche soldiers, with a duxelle of mushrooms, topped with winter black truffles, and chives. The duxelle proved the perfect vehicle for the truffle, drifting the scent through the dish, without dominating it. I loved this dish so much, within a few days I’d made it at myself, albeit a poorer home version.

Himself had the lamb barbecue lamb ribs, baked glazed shallot, grilled spring onions, onion purée and a shepherd’s pie croquette. I’m not a huge fan of lamb so he chooses it when he can. He thought it was the best lamb he’d eaten in years (it was Herdwick incidentally, from the lake district). The croquette was made with the shoulder, before being mixed with mash, crumbed and fried.

I chose the butter poached loin of hare, jugged leg, root vegetable purée, game chips and watercress – a witty take on the hare and his daily diet. The loin of hare is coated in dehydrated trompette de morte, which adds a piquant layer to the dense and soft meat. I haven’t eaten hare for some time, and it’s delicious. The texture is that of very good venison, but the flavour is much lighter, and has a grassy quality, it’s actually rather a delicate taste. The root vegetable purée (made from separately roasted parsnip, celeriac, swede and carrot) provides a sweet and creamy hit to contrast to the peppery watercress and crisp chips. The jugged hare has the texture of pulled pork, but is much more intense. Marinated in red wine, then braised in stock and the marinade, it’s thickened in the final moments with the blood from the hare – an intense little morsel. The green watercress purée compliments the grassiness of the hare. Hidden amongst the dish are cubes of pommes Anna, the potato scented with thyme, and is genuinely the best pommes Anna I’ve had. Given that I make a truffle scented one, I don’t make that statement lightly.

Of course I was going to have the soufflé, it was inconceivable that I’d have anything else, except there were some amazing alternatives on the menu: morello sorbet with pistachio foam (with the chocolate tarte), and on the specials a textures of rhubarb: jelly, foam, sorbet, crisps and crumble… The soufflé was perfectly cooked, of course, I would expect no less of Tony. I wasn’t utterly convinced about the balance of the spices in the soufflé itself, but when I discussed it with Tony, neither was he. The Hubby felt the nutmeg was slightly too prevalent, but as the dish has only been on the menu for two days, it’s still a work in progress. I’ve also documented elsewhere my dread of cooked banana, but actually the banana ice-cream was fine and came with a crisp shard of sugar craquelure, and a delicious swirl of salted caramel which complimented it perfectly. I look forward to eating the final version.

The Hubby, feeling particularly generous after his two perfect dishes, decided to indulge me and order the dessert tasting plate containing my morello cherry sorbet. Beautifully sticky toffee pudding, clotted cream, and toffee sauce; cookies and cream parfait, mocha cappuccino, warm berries and dark chocolate cookies; and the bitter chocolate tart, pistachio foam, morello cherry sorbet. Each element of the dessert was a tiny dense hit of very intense flavours. I tried the tart which has such a high cocoa content you could fly to the moon on that tiny wedge, but is lightened by the pistachio foam – lovely.

During the course of the evening we took time to look at our fellow diners, and there is an amazing mix in the room. From the family in the corner, to the suits in the other half of the room, the entire space was packed. On the table next to us was a chap on his 71st stay, and he was greeted like an old friend by the head waiter Henry Knight. Henry brought him things he thought would interest him and they chatted with a familiarity that comes from a long and genuine relationship. I don’t think I’ve considered the relationship a hotel restaurant has with its regulars before, especially when it comes to keeping the menu seasonal and interesting.

I have to say, even though I had eaten Tony’s food before over the years, I was genuinely, genuinely impressed by his menu. How is this place not a destination restaurant? I spoke to a well known food blogger and we discussed how, particularly in with hotel restaurants, good restaurants can fall through the ‘word of mouth’ cracks. With a regular stream of hotel guests, they’re not quite as reliant on that kind of business. However, this is as accomplished as many of the restaurants we eat in, in you can see from my list, that’s pretty good company to keep. Next time you want to try something new, get down to Axis. I’ve already been back to the Lobby Bar, the Hubby has already booked himself in for a business dinner with clients. This place is going straight onto our favourites list.

Addendum: I really wanted to try that rhubarb dish before it went off the menu, so I popped back to Axis – the best £8 I’ve spent in ages – what an absolute delight! There’s a delicious little pot of rhubarb crumble, scented with vanilla; a rhubarb purée; a beautiful rhubarb foam made of rhubarb purée, sugar and gelatine; delicate mounds of intense jelly; sorbet, and dehydrated rhubarb crisps. The combination is light, absolutely mouthwatering, and very refreshing. The absolutely pièce de résistance are apple blossom flowers. What an absolute revelation – they are mouthwatering, crisp, zingy, scented – who knew? I’m going to be going around my garden raiding those trees that have a great abundance of blossom. Only on for another week, get it while you can – a scent’sational dish!

Axis
One Aldwych
London
WC2B 4BZ

Starters £9

oxtail, wild mushroom and horseradish

consommé, spring onions, parsley

welsh rarebit on toast, plum tomato salad (v)

chicken liver parfait,pickled radish, poached quince, hot brioche

roast beetroot, baby carrots, English mozzarella, bitter leaves, lemon thyme dressing (v)

deep fried pig’s trotter, braised head, celeriac purée, lentil jus

endive salad, roast walnuts, blue cheese, honey mustard dressing (v)(n)

selection of english charcuterie, piccalilli, garlic toasts (£3 supplement)

fried duck egg, onion jam, mushroom and truffle soldiers

seafooD £13

lobster ravioli, salad of sea vegetables, basil oil (£2 supplement)

dressed crab cocktail,watercress salad, Granny Smith apple, crab bon-bons

seared scallops, oriental braised pork belly, soy sauce, cauliflower and coriander

smoked and poached scottish salmon, avocado and lime mousse, pickled baby vegetables

Light Main courses £14

potato, caramelised onion and goat’s cheese tatin, sautéed spinach, tomato and coriander dressing (v)

steamed fillet of sea bass, stuffed with crab and soft herbs, cucumber, fennel and dill salad, raspberry vinaigrette (£4 supplement)

side orders £4

tomato salad green beans and shallots

french fries crushed charlotte potatoes

wilted spinach purple sprouting broccoli

main courses £19

roast cod, parsnip and honey purée, home-smoked cod kedgeree, spiced fish velouté

loch duart salmon, crispy smoked pork belly, braised kale, bittersweet onions, red wine fumet

roast halibut, smoked duck gnocchi, purple broccoli, jus gras (£4 supplement)

slow cooked celeriac, cumin fried spinach, lightly spiced vegetables, lentil dahl, green chilli and cauliflower bhajis (v)

roast chicken, truffled macaroni, crispy Worcestershire cured ham, figs, Madeira shallot jus

braised beef bourguignon, smoked bacon, mashed potato, red wine sauce

roast rump of herdwick lamb, barbecue lamb ribs, baked glazed shallot, grilled spring onions, shepherd’s pie fritter (£4 supplement)

char-grilled 35 day aged galloway rib-eye, slow cooked tomatoes, button mushrooms with dauphinoise or beef dripping chips and peppercorn sauce or béarnaise (£5 supplement)

haunch of denham estate venison, red wine apple purée, creamed cabbage, braised shank boulangère, chocolate oil (n) (£3 supplement)

butter poached loin of hare, jugged leg, root vegetable purée, game chips, watercress (£4 supplement)

dessertS £7

tarte tatin of apple, butterscotch ice cream, cinnamon and raisin caramel

floating islands, vanilla custard, honeycomb
gingerbread soufflé, banana ice cream, caramelised bananas
cookies and cream parfait, mocha cappuccino, warm berries and dark chocolate cookies
bitter chocolate tart, pistachio foam, morello cherry sorbet

sticky toffee pudding, clotted cream, toffee sauce
lemon tart, confit lemon

selection of british cheeses £9

with oatcakes and Granny Smith

dessert sampling plate £11

Sticky toffee pudding, clotted cream, toffee sauce

Cookies and cream parfait, mocha cappuccino, warm berries and dark chocolate cookies

Bitter chocolate tart, pistachio foam, morello cherry sorbet

February 21, 2012 1 Michelin Star

The Lanesborough, Belgravia

Breakfast number two of the week and today the venue is the Lanesborough on Hyde Park Corner. An impressive 19th century building which is now a small, but luxurious hotel, in the heart of London. Originally built as a hospital (St. Georges) in the 18C, it was demolished and rebuilt in 1827 by William Wilkins. The hospital itself transferred to Tooting in 1980, and the building fell into disrepair until 1991 when it was refurbished and re-opened, and now is arguably the most expensive hotel in London.

I’ve been here many times before, though I’ve never stayed overnight, and I’ve certainly enjoyed the hospitality of the restaurants and bars – the library bar is a favourite of mine. On entering the hotel I’n directed to Apsleys, the restaurant. Taken over by Heinz Beck in 2009, it is his first restaurant outside of Italy and was awarded a Michelin star in 2010 (the fastest for a London restaurant at the time).

The last time I was here was for dinner before the refurbishment, then, it was a colonial style greenhouse with pastille coloured 80’s styling, with a very loud piano playing in the centre – we expected to find George Michael and Andrew Ridgeley hiding behind the palms with fake tans and shorts. Now it has the feeling of a light, open, Italian venue, with a Titian-esque artwork as a centrepiece. I assume this is to announce the ‘rebirth’ of the restaurant itself (although for some reason the artwork has go-faster stripes).

The menu is extensive and they even encourage you to be creative and go ‘off menu’. Given my recent disappointment, I know I’m going to go down the Eggs Benedict route again. The orange juice is already in the waiters’ hands, so I accept the invitation and give my order.

I assume the go-faster stripes on the centrepiece give the illusion that orders are being handled much more quickly than they are, and we wait what seems to be an age. All three of us have ordered eggs, so I assume only one egg chef is on, or they are out the back squeezing a couple from the chicken. Finally, the dishes arrive. Again the food looks great, though as I found to my cost yesterday, looks can be deceiving. I look more closely…

Two nicely formed poached eggs on top of an abundance of ham, and one half of a largish muffin. A decent, but not overwhelming amount of hollandaise with a pinch of paprika. My knife glides through the egg revealing a medium cooked egg with a yolk that flows down over the ham and muffin, but is not indiscreet enough to damage the texture of either. The ham is a honey roast ham, organically sourced, and full of flavour; and the muffin is nice and fluffy. The hollandaise, is creamy, but could do with just a touch more acidity – but I feel I’m splitting hairs now.

I enjoy the venue, the eggs Benedict were good. The service, other than waiting for too long, was fine and I leave in good humour – joking with the staff as I leave. One tells me his favourite egg joke:

How do Monsters like their eggs cooked – Terri-fried.

Update:

I had breakfast again this morning, and things have definitely deteriorated since my last visit. Eggs were undercooked, the staff kept trying to sell us pastries every five minutes and I had to ask for juice three times. A glass of grapefruit juice finally arrived, but had been watered down. I also had to ask for a cup of coffee twice, and finally got it at the end of the meal. The bill also had to be requested three times! 17/9/12

February 9, 2012 1 Michelin Star

Alyn Williams, Mayfair

Alyn Williams is a chef’s chef. I know this, because when I ask a Tony Fleming where I should be eating, he pointed me in Alyn’s direction and said what a great chap he was.

Formerly head chef at Marcus Wareing’s restaurant in the Berkeley, Alyn’s pedigree also extends to time at Royal Hospital Road – so two of our favourites under his belt, but here with his own menu and flair.

The restaurant only has 11 tables, but they’re well spaced and comfortable. The room feels like a hotel dining room, with deep wood veneers on the wall, and a glittery carpet that I am positive I’ve seen before. Not often one has deja vu over a carpet. Off to one side of the room, and between the kitchen and the diners, are a number of terrarium where the staff are growing herbs, wild grasses and even an ash and an oak in their own micro-climates – fascinating. They turn on a growing light each night to prevent the plants from turning towards the lights in the restaurant. In the corners of the room are a number of discreet banquettes for larger groups, and set off from the centre is a private dining room with a pretty impressive collection of wine. Indeed this is one of the few places in ages that I’ve been able to get a glass of Krug as my apéritif.

Menu in hand I tucked in to a very lovely gougere, which is made with Fourme d’Ambert, it was very light, rich cheesy tang, very good. There were also prawn crackers with a tiny dot of mayonnaise and a cube of prawn; really excellent truffled arincini; and a tiny pissaladière, here with a shard of barbecue flavoured salmon – delicious. Influences may have come from all around the globe, but they sat very happily together.

We decided to go for the tasting menu (good value at £55 a head), and were given some bread, and two kinds of butter. As well as the usual offering, the kitchen serves butter whipped with caraway. It turns the butter a rich golden colour and adds an incredibly moreish edge to whatever you’ve put it on – one idea I’m definitely going to steal!

Then we were brought an onion soup consommé – in the bottom of a cocktail glass light delicate crab, topped with a disk of aspic (nice that), and beef cheek. The consommé is then poured into the glass. This is served with a side order of cheese squares – crisp wafers sandwiched with cream cheese and chives.

Perigord truffle soldiers, with smoked egg and celeriac came as tiny disks of crisp refreshing apple, a poached hens egg (which apparently took the kitchen weeks to perfect), and truffles layered between rich buttery toast. The yolk forms the dressing for the dish, and worked very well with the celeriac cylinders and coated the disks of truffle in the dish – all very good.

Next we had the semi-fredo foie gras: cylinders of chilled foie gras served with frozen yoghurt (which had been salted – delicious!), a lime puree and scattered with a lime and liquorice powder (this is made with liquorice oil, tapioca, lime and ground liquorice root). At the bottom of the dish sat a layer of deep and earthy liquorice which was echoed in the coriander cress. The dish ate best when we combined the liquorice and lime together, especially with that salted frozen yoghurt. An amazing combination of flavours.

The fish course is cod served with sea beets, purslane, rock samphire, scurvy grass, and sea astor – topped with gutweed butter. It was creamy without overpowering the delicate and translucent fish. I love foraged greens and the dish was balanced, creamy without any apparent cream sauce, and yet delicate and scented.

Cotswold chicken is served with chargrilled leeks, a deep rich leek puree, girolle mushrooms, and another smoked egg. This was our choice I should point out, as I didn’t have the scallop dish with the oysters, and actually I rather like smoked eggs. The skin on the chicken was crisp, rich with umami flavours and the mushrooms perfect with the smoked yolk. The tempura style root added another dimension to the dish and the chargrilled leeks were smoky and sweet.

Alyn was concerned that we’d had two egg yolks, and so sent us a dish of beef, braised beef, quenelles of turnip and tiny, tiny croutons. The beef was rich and deep and the jus smooth and glossy. The potatoes were almost miniature fondant potatoes, and I was grateful for their size. The beef was a Devon Ruby Red, not a breed I’m was familiar with, and supplied by Phillip Warren in Launceston who is a butcher for the Rare Breeds Survival Trust.

The pre-dessert was a little bowl of crema catalana but topped with pear granita. The crema had non of the burnt edge of a typical Catalan cream, but the granita provided a very light and vibrant palate cleanser. The dish was topped with pine sugar, adding further texture to the granita.

Dessert was described to us a being like a Twix, but I thought it tasted much more like a Marathon. Not a Snickers mind you, an old fashioned and much saltier Marathon from the good old days. The chocolate finger did have a caramal layer on top of the biscuit, but one mouthful of the peanut butter icecream transports you straight back to your childhood. I had supposed the pâtissier was using peanut brittle rather than peanut butter, but I’m assured it’s Skippy, favourite as most of us know of Nigella. Amazing depth and flavour!

One of the joys of such a small room is that over the course of the evening everyone begins to relax, chat a bit more, speak to the staff about where they like to eat, what they like to drink. We spent some time talking to the enthusiastic Danish sommelier, and to Gian Carlo the restaurant manager. The staff were all charming, and went out of their way to show people the wine room and introduce each table to the kitchen, if they wished.

Personally I love a good nose around a professional kitchen, and the Hubby dutifully tagged along – but Alyn is so charming and such good fun that we were soon laughing, and trying to pocket the gorgeous bianchetti Alyn had stashed in his drawer. I’d never come across bianchetti before, and had no idea that any white truffles were still available at this time of the year. Alyn was going to preserve them in Sauternes, and this thought alone guaranteed I’d already made my next reservation before I even wrote this piece!

Do get along to see Alyn before the best value tasting menu in town is booked solid. Try not to get too heavily stuck into the wine list though – some wines are still being sold at their original cost and represent great bargains – others were subject to usual hotel markup.

Alyn Williams at the Westbury

37 Conduit Street
The Westbury Mayfair Hotel
London W1S 2YF

February 6, 2012 Restaurant

Revisits Roganic, Early 2012

Roganic is one of the few restaurants where I really, really want to see what’s new on the menu, and regret it when someone tries a dish that I didn’t have… Simon, Ben and the team have an incredibly sensitive palate and a very inventive use of seasonal and foraged ingredients. Last time I was at Roganic they were still using all of the glorious summer produce, with delicate herbs, edible flowers and the freshest ingredients. A winter menu is much more challenging for the kitchen – to truly stay seasonal, with a very limited range of produce, a kitchen has to be particularly inventive.

It was lovely to come back into the restaurant – the staff are so friendly and so enthusiastic that it was great to catch up with them again. Most of the original front of house team are still here, with Jon Cannon, Sandia Chang and Jack Settle still providing their usual warm cheer… Sandia has also taken on the duties of sommelier.

We were greeted with a glass of Chapel Down sparkling wine from Kent (very good) and a couple of amuse. There was a squid ink crouton with smoked cream cheese and celery cress, and a beef coquette with corned beef, apple, cress, carrot and grain mustard mayo. Both were delicious – the beef dense and chewy, and the richness offset by the crisp apple. Smoked cream cheese is also a revelation – the really tangy sourness cutting through the umami /iodine flavour of the crouton.

Roganic’s bread is always a joy, and considering the tiny space they have downstairs in the kitchen(s), is an amazing testament to their commitment. Today’s offerings included the famous pumpernickel, Irish sodabread, buttermilk, and a sweet chestnut and thyme parchment. These are served with freshly churned butter.

We left ourselves in the hands of the staff and settled in for the tasting menu. First came the millet pudding with grains, burnt red pear, tangy rich Devon blue cheese and honey cress. This is a beautiful dish, sitting in its green pool – the burnt edge to the pear adding an extra dimension to a familiar cheese pear combination. The grains were chewy but soft and yielding and topped with sea kale, not too much iron intensity.

Roganic likes to play with water-bath egg yolks, and this winter it’s a smoked Braddock White duck egg with pickled roots, wild chervil and salt beef. The dish is served under a cloche filled with cherrywood smoke. The yolk becomes a dense, buttery globe of golden goo, offset by delicately soused grapes, which cut through the richness. Under the yolk a little stack of salt beef and something not unlike granola provide a depth of texture. The smell of cherrywood pervades the dish and the chervil adds a gently aniseed kick.

Taking mushrooms to an art form, the poached and grilled king oyster mushroom is served with dehydrated powdered mushroom soil, Douglas fir pine, red and yellow beetroot. Intense umami flavours are achieved by roasting off the tomato in a mixture of Lea & Perrins, tomato and barbecue sauces – a deeply satisfying sweet and sour flavour.

And how can you transform the humble leek? Brought to the the table on a bed of rosemary spiced soil is a leek wrapped in a clay casing. Broken open and then plated, it’s dressed with a layer of 72° grated chocolate. The King Richard leek is first intensified through sous vide in a water bath for several hours, before being baked in its clay coat. Served with beautifully scented sorrel, rosemary, puffed rice, shallots and bacon cream, the shallot is intact but yielding, intense in its meaty sauce, yet preserving the integral taste of the leek.

One of the kitchen’s real endeavours is to introduce us to unusual varieties of vegetables, and Mr Little’s Yetholm Gypsies are a Scottish variety of potato with a red white and blue colouration. Cooked in chicken fat, with snow peas, mussel juice and a little goat curd, it was full of flavour and packed a punch but presented in a beautifully delicate way.

Plaice poached in fennel stock, sea beet, and sprout leaves tastes very meaty. With Morecambe shrimp and preserved leek fondant, it worked well with the other dishes.

Then Gressingham duck, carrot, mayweed and smoked redcurrants. The smoked redcurrants are a revelation – tiny little bombs of intensity which sing happily with the roast salsify and rich duck. The smooth smoky tomato sauce provides a kick and the meat just falls apart.

For dessert, a pool of warm salted chocolate is poured for you at the table, with toasted almonds and sloe sorbet. It’s dressed with sweetly aniseed flavoured atsina cress and tiny diced zinging pear – a dense but refreshing combination.

We finish with a fir milkshake and cupcakes spiked with rosehip and popping candy – the depth and warmth of the warm milk feel like a bedtime treat, leaving you relaxed and complete.

I must admit to initially feeling a little disappointed with the menu, but it quickly became apparent that even more effort had gone into these dishes than those in the summer. It’s much easier to arrange fabulous fresh ingredients at the height of the summer – working a little bit of magic on the humble winter leek is much more difficult, and actually shows the lengths that Roganic will go to stay true to their seasonal and local credentials. Personally I like all those amazing raw summer ingredients, but the Hubby preferred the rich intensity of the winter menu. This is the point of Roganic, to suggest that it makes you think about your food would do it a disservice – this is food you can just eat because it tastes delicious. But personally I like to think about my food, to question my attitudes, and I came away from Roganic even more impressed by their repertoire. Hurry up Spring, I want to see what’s coming next…

The Current Menu

10 Course Lunch / Dinner Menu £80

Millet pudding with grains, burnt pear and Devon blue

Smoked Braddock White, pickled roots, wild chervil and salt beef

Roasted Looe scallops, purple sprouting and chokeberry vinaigrette

Poached and grilled king oyster, pine, beetroot and coastal sea leaves

Caramelised cauliflower, sour cream, raisin, roasted lettuce and pennywort

Mr Little’s Yetholm Gypies cooked in chicken fat, snow peas and mussel juice

Plaice poached in fennel stock, sea beet, preserved leek and sprout leaves

Gressingham duck, carrot, mayweed and smoked redcurrants

Warm salted chocolate, toasted almonds and sloe sorbet

Yorkshire rhubarb, dried caramel, natural yoghurt and iced lemon thyme

All of these gorgeous photos were taken by Paul Winch-Furness for Roganic

and are reproduced here with his kind permission…

For more examples of Paul’s work go to www.paulwf.co.uk

Follow Paul on twitter as @paulwf

January 18, 2012 French

Pierre Koffmann, Belgravia

Age has its drawbacks, but it also brings its rewards. I’m lucky enough to have eaten in each of Pierre Koffmann’s London restaurants – one meal at La Tante Claire remains on my favourite five meals of all time. Pierre now presides over a lower key restaurant at the Berkeley Hotel, and remains on my list of favourites. As I was organising a lunch to meet my new chum Charlotte Lynham and we had lots to discuss, I wanted a room which where the food would be delicious, but where conversation could flow. Frankly, I rarely need an excuse to go back to visit Monsieur Koffmann, and so the booking was duly made.

The restaurant is bright, comfortable and always very cheery. I’d identified my guest as a coeliac on the booking notice, and once we had been seated, the waiter discreetly inquired who was who. Charlotte was offered two kinds of gluten free bread, a white bread, and a seeded variety. At every stage of the meal Charlotte was advised which dishes contained gluten and what the alternatives might be. As Charlotte was effectively barred from the bread, I was offered the whole fabulous selection to myself. The star for me was the rosemary brioche feuilletée – light, amazingly crisp, the rosemary neatly punctuating the richness of the buttery brioche.

Determined to get to the pistachio soufflé on the dessert menu, I opted to have two starters. Charlotte decided to join me as, having mentioned that she loved the game pie, the kitchen had kindly saved a duck pithivier for us to try before our mains.

To start I had fresh crab with a celeriac and apple remoulade. The dish arrives hidden beneath the carapace of a spider crab, which is lifted to reveal a beautiful delicate tower. The lightly dressed crab sits on top of a layer of crisp and slightly tart apple remoulade. The tower is topped with frisée, and disks of radish, all contributing to a light, crisp dish. Charlotte had the langoustines and scallops with shellfish broth, which I’ll come to in a minute.

As a middle course, we were brought the aforementioned duck pithivier. With the finest layer of perfectly scored puff pastry, the interior of the pithivier contained finely diced meat, placed on top of a rich unctuous red wine jus. It was rich, intense, but didn’t overwhelm the senses.

Charlotte decided to try the squid Bolognese-style as her main dish, and I managed to steal some from her. The squid had been cut into the finest, flattest tagliatelle, and served with a bolognese sauce. The sauce had been enriched with squid ink, intensifying the flavours. I thought the squid tagliatelle was absolutely exquisite, and frankly much nicer than pasta – perfect for coeliacs!

For my main course I had the langoustines and scallops with shellfish broth. The broth is presented inside another spider crab shell, and is delicate yet deep and earthy. The tender and barely cooked langoustine sit with scallops and clams in a shellfish bisque scented with finely sliced chives. The bisque is a much lighter and brighter one than I’ve ever had before, and supported the delicacy of the shellfish, rather than overwhelmed it. Nestling amongst the bisque were also tiny little croutons, and we noted that these had been left out of Charlotte’s dish – the attention to detail in the kitchen is duly noticed out in the restaurant.

To celebrate the Epiphany, the lovely staff brought me a slice of Galette des Rois. This traditional holiday cake is made with layers of dense frangipane and crisp pastry, and here the top was beautifully scored and glazed. Charlotte was offered a lemon sorbet, and found that delicious.

Finally, desserts. I’ve had Pierre’s pistachio soufflé with pistachio ice-cream on many occasions, and have even described it in this blog as my joint favourite soufflé of all time. Today’s offering did not disappoint: a most perfect combination of pistachio paste and egg whites, the soufflé is presented whole and then pierced with a quenelle of pistachio ice-cream. This slips through the centre of the soufflé, creating an even more luscious layer of pistachio scented foam. As the soufflé dish is lined with shavings of dark chocolate, the outer layer adds the necessary bitter and slightly salty counterpoint to the soufflé. It remains in first place on my soufflé leader board.

The staff again advised Charlotte which dishes would be most suitable for her. She plumped for the chestnut and chocolate mousse. This is beautifully presented and the mousse is sandwiched between three layers of crisp chocolate. I couldn’t tear myself away from my soufflé, but Charlotte said that the mousse was delicate in flavour, and the portion just the right size to satisfy without overwhelming her palate.

More than fully sated, we sat for a while absorbing the atmosphere of the room, drinking tea and coffee.

I’ve been to Koffmann’s on several occasions, and the standards are definitely going up. I find the restaurant reliable, the staff extremely courteous, and the food of an extremely high standard. I’ve always loved it, and I look forward to seeing it gain the recognition it deserves.

Pierre Koffmann
The Berkeley Hotel
Wilton Place
Knightsbridge
London SW1X 7RL

__________________________________________________________

HORS-D’ŒUVRES

SOUPE DE POISSONS, CROÛTONS ET AÏOLI

Provençale fish soup with croutons & aïoli — £9 —

CRABE, CÉLERI-RAVE ET POMME RÉMOULADE

Fresh crab with celeriac & apple remoulade — £15 / £24 —

CASSOLETTE D’ESCARGOTS, CHAMPIGNONS SAUVAGES ET PERSIL

Snails, wild mushrooms & parsley — £12 —

ARTICHAUTS ET HARICOTS VERT, VINAIGRETTE NOISETTE

Artichokes & green beans, hazelnut vinaigrette — £11 —

FOIE GRAS CHAUD, BETTERAVES ET CACAO

Hot foie gras with beetroot & cocoa powder — £15 —

PATÉ DE CANARD ET RIS DE VEAU SUR CROÛTE, SALADE

Encrusted duck & sweetbread paté & salad — £10 —

COQUILLES ST. JACQUES À L’ENCRE ET BROCOLI

Hand dived scallops, ink sauce & broccoli purée — £16 / £28 —

CALAMARS FAÇON BOLOGNAISE

Squid Bolognese-style — £10 / £18 —

TERRINE DE FOIE GRAS, BAGUETTE ET BRIOCHE

Terrine of foie gras with baguette & brioche — £15 —

LANGOUSTINES ET ST. JACQUES, NAGE DE COQUILLAGES

Langoustines & scallops with shellfish broth — £12 —

JAMBON NOIR DE BIGORRE, RADIS BEURRE

Noir de Bigorre ham with radish butter — £14 —

BOUDIN GASCON, BETHMALE, OIGNONS ET BETTERAVES

Gascony-style black pudding with Bethmale cheese, onions & beetroot — £9 —

__________________________________________________________

ENTRÉES

LOTTE RÔTIE, LENTILLES DU PUY ET SAUCE BORDELAISE

Roasted monkfish with Puy lentils, Bordelaise sauce — £26 —

CABILLAUD EN POT-AU-FEU, SAUCE VERTE

Cod with herb sauce — £23 —

SOLE POÊLÉE, GRENOBLOISE

Dover sole Grenoble-style — £40 —

PIED DE COCHON, TANTE CLAIRE

Pig’s trotter stuffed with sweetbreads & morels — £28 —

ENTRECÔTE DE BŒUF USA AU POIVRE NOIR

USA rib-eye steak with black pepper sauce — £29 —

DAUBE DE JOUE DE BŒUF, GRAND-MÈRE

Home-style, braised beef cheeks in red wine — £24 —

QUASI D’AGNEAU EN CROÛTE D’HERBES

Herb-crusted rump of lamb — £27 —

CÔTE DE BŒUF ÉCOSSAISE, SAUCE BÉARNAISE (FOR TWO)

Scottish rib of beef on the bone with Béarnaise sauce — £54 —

RAIE BOULANGÈRE, BEURRE D’HERBES ET OLIVES

Baked skate with herb butter & olives — £22 —

HOMARD ÉCOSSAIS, ÉPICES DOUCES ET RATTE

Scottish lobster with mild spices & ratte potatoes (600g) — £60 —

FLÉTAN SAUVAGE, LÉGUMES RACINES ET CITRON CONFIT

Wild halibut with confit lemon & root vegetables — £29 —

PIGEONNEAU D’ANJOU RÔTI, JARDINIÈRE DE LÉGUMES

Roasted Anjou pigeon with mixed vegetables — £26 —

ROGNONS ET RIS DE VEAU AUX CHAMPIGNONS DES BOIS

Veal kidneys & sweetbreads with wild mushrooms — £25 —

CANETTE DES DOMBES LAQUÉE AU MIEL MILLE FLEURS

Honey glazed duckling — £26 —

LAPEREAU RÔTI, HARICOT MAÏS ET CHORIZO

Roasted young rabbit with beans & chorizo — £23 —

POULET DE LAVERSTOKE PARK FARM RÔTI, CROÛTONS PERSILLES (FOR TWO) Roasted organic Laverstoke Park Farm chicken with parsley croutons (Allow 45 mins) — £54 —

All our fish are wild & ingredients come from sustainable sources

__________________________________________________________

LÉGUMES SÉLECTION

HARICOTS VERT

Fine French beans

CHOU-FLEUR

Cauliflower

GRATIN DAUPHINOIS

Potato gratin

PURÉE DE POMMES DE TERRE

Mashed potatoes

BROCOLIS

Broccoli

ÉPINARDS

Spinach

__________________________________________________________

SOUFFLÉ AUX PISTACHES ET SA GLACE

Pistachio soufflé with pistachio ice-cream (Allow 15 mins) – £14 –

GLACE POUSSE TOUT

Armagnac & Agen prune ice-cream – £10 –

ŒUF À LA NEIGE CARAMÉLISÉ

Caramelised floating island – £9 –

MOUSSE DE MARRON ET CHOCOLAT

Chestnut & chocolate mousse – £9 –

TARTE TATIN

Tart Tatin with vanilla ice-cream – £10 –

BABA AU RHUM, ANANAS

Rum baba with caramelised pineapple – £10 –

PAIN PERDU, BANANE RÔTIE

French toast & roasted banana – £9 –

GLACES ET SORBETS

Laverstoke Park Farm ice-cream selection & sorbets – £8 –

PARFAIT AUX CACAHUÈTES

Peanut parfait – £9 –

FROMAGES

Selection of cheeses – £15 –

__________________________________________________________

EARL GREY

ASSAM BLACK

MUTAN WHITE

SENCHA GREEN TEA

LEMON or MINT VERBENA

CHAMOMILE FLOWERS

ROOIBOS CHAI

WHITE VANILLA

GRAPEFRUIT

JASMINE PEARLS

ENGLISH BREAKFAST

CAFÉ your choice

– £3.50 –

January 12, 2012 Restaurant

Cheyne Walk Brasserie, Chelsea

We were introduced to the Cheyne Walk Brasserie abut three years ago now, and eat here regularly. But no matter how often I mention it, it appears no-one else is aware of it. It’s always busy, there’s a fabulous wine list, and the steaks are cooked over a huge open fire in the restaurant.

It is elegant, stylish, and very… French…

The brasserie itself is set inside an old corner pub, just by the Thames. From the outside it’s very understated, and it’s definitely the kind of restaurant you need to be seeking out, rather than stumble across. The interior is equally discreet, and there’s a very nice shabby-chic velvet seated salon upstairs. The banquette is a beautiful duck egg blue, and there are French chandeliers, tablecloths, and a roaring fire on which much of the food is cooked. The staff are predominantly French too, and the there’s a lovely French female sommelier, who remembers your preferences from visit to visit.

Once seated, you’re given a bowl of different breads which have been seared on the open fire, and served on wooden boards. I wish I could describe the full variety of the menu to you, but in reality I only ever eat the same thing here – wagyu beef! Before we get to that, there are a variety of starters – there’s always a foie offering – but I usually opt for the plump scallops, here served with crispy bacon and a little pea puree. The Hubby will often try the foie offering, which always comes with absolutely excellent brioche.

It’s worth recounting that on my first visit to the CWB a large table next to us ordered the crudités and dips – my word… A basket of the freshest and most varied vegetables imaginable arrived – it was incredible! If I thought it would even remotely allow room for my main, I’d order this. Perhaps if you’re in a large group you might consider it.

On every visit we have the wagyu. Always. It’s seared on the fire in the middle of the room, and comes with a variety of sauces and sides. I have the Bearnaise sauce, which here is thick, intense with tarragon, and with enough acidity to truly cut through the charred richness of the outside of the steak. The Hubby usually has the mushroom sauce, which is rich and dense, and he has a side order of chips – always perfectly cooked – in a little silver pot. I have a side salad, properly dressed, and full of soft leaves, rather than the bitter ones you find in many restaurants. The steaks are delivered to you on a board having been rested, with a burning stem of rosemary, and cut in front of you. The charred and burning rosemary really does evoke all kinds of food feelings, the scent of barbecues, outside cooking, it works very well with the sweetly charred scent of the steaks.

This certainly isn’t the cheapest steak in london, but if you’re looking for a little more French elegance than American diner, do give the Cheyne Walk Brasserie a go… It’s elegant, grownup and, for me, the best steak in London.

A La Carte

ENTRÉES
Soup of the Day (v)	£7.50
Onion Soup (g)	£9.50
Fresh Salmon Tartar Dressed with Capers, Gherkins and Parsley (n)	£12.00
Selection of Charcuterie (for 2 people)	£19.00
Aubergine Rolls with Red Tuna, Red Pepper Coulis and Aubergine Caviar	£12.00
Basket of Crudités with Sauce Trio (v)	£16.50
Lobster and Crab Ravioli with Lobster Bisque	£17.50
Selection of Salmon Tartar, Scallops, Oyster and Cornish, Tiger Prawn and Lobster Bisque	£18.00
Jerusalem Artichoke Gratin with Roquefort Cheese and Walnuts (v) (n)	£10.50
Pan fried Scallops with Crispy Bacon and Pea Puree	£16.00
Foie Gras of the Day	£14.50
Crab in Mayonnaise with Dill, Pink Grapefruit and Martini Blanco	£14.50
Wrapped Goat’s cheese with Pistachios on Poached Apple (v) (n)	£11.50
Cassolette of Snails with Cream and Garlic Sauce, Toasted Bread	£11.50
Rock Oysters	£12.00/£22.00
Mussels with Mariniere Sauce or Provencale Sauce	£7.50/£13.00

SALADES
Green Beans Salad, Pistachios and Fresh Mint (v) (n)	£9.50
Salad with Smoked Duck Breast, Gizzards, Crispy Bacon, Foie Gras and Croûtons, Raspberry Dressing	£13.50
Ste Maure Goat’s Cheese Salad, Asparagus and Parma Ham, French Dressing	£12.00

AU GRILL
Whole Grilled Sea Bass with Provencal Herbs (n)	£24.50
Whole Native Grilled Lobster with Garlic Butter	£36.00
Grilled Sea Bream with Lemon and Bay Leaves (n)	£23.50
Duck Breast from “Les Landes”, with a Honey Sauce	£21.50
Ribeye of Beef 350g	£23.50
Wagyu Ribeye 350g	£39.50
Sirloin of Beef 250g	£21.50
Half a Grilled Chicken from “Les Landes”	£15.50
Rack of Lamb from “Pyrénées”	£23.50
Veal Chop from Limousin	£23.00
Rib of Beef on the Bone for Two 1kg	£58.00
Beef Board for 3/4 people (Grilled T-Bone and Rib, Pan Fried Chateaubriand)	£98.00

AU FOUR
Seafood Parpadelles	£17.00
Spinach and Goat’s Cheese Ravioli, Basil Veloute and Beetroot Julian (v)	£13.50
Pan fried Beef Fillet, Potato Cake and Madera Sauce	£27.50
Lamb Medaillons with Caramelized Parsnip, Fresh Mint Puree and Gooseberry Sauce	£23.00
Pan fried Pigeon Breast with Tomato Polenta and Prune Sauce	£16.50
Salt Encrusted Royal Sea Bream	£26.00

ACCOMPAGNEMENTS	£4.10
Dauphinois Potatoes
Wilted Spinach
Mixed Seasonal Vegetables
Pan Fried Green Beans with Crispy Bacon
Pan Fried Wild Mushroom, Shallots and Parsley
Homecut Chips
Mash Potatoes
Mixed Salad

SAUCES
Béarnaise
Mayonnaise Maison
Red Wine Sauce
Peppercorn Sauce
Mushroom Sauce

DESSERTS	£8.00
Red Fruit and Rhubarb Crumble with Custard Cream (g)
Bourbon Vanilla Crème brulée
White Chocolate Mousse with Red Fruits and shortbread (g)
Selection of Ice Creams and Sorbets
Apple Tart Tatin flambéed with Calvados and Vanilla Ice Cream (g)
Chocolate Fondant with Tonka Seeds and Vanilla Ice Cream (g)

FROMAGES
£9.00 for 3 pieces
£13.00 for 5 pieces
Selection of Fine French Cheeses with Tomato Jam

TEAS & INFUSIONS
GREEN & WHITE TEAS
Sencha Japanese green tea	£3.50
Jasmine Chinese green tea	£4.00
Silver Needle 100% white tea	£4.50
BLACK TEAS	£3.00
English Breakfast
Earl Grey
Ceylon
Darjeeling
Lapsang Souchong
INFUSIONS
Fresh Mint	£3.50
Camomille	£3.00
Cut Peppermint	£3.00
Vervain	£3.00
Rosehip with Hibiscus	£3.50
Apple & Lemon	£3.50

June 29, 2011 1 Michelin Star

Galvin at Windows, Mayfair

Just a quickie today :0) And be warned – the word fabulous is going to appear rather a lot!

Last night I had dinner at Galvin’s on Park Lane. We’d been at the Serpentine Party, and for once I was actually ravenous when we arrived at the restaurant.

Depending on your sensibilities, Galvin either has a fabulous location, way up in the Hilton and with breathtaking views over London, or perhaps has dizzying effects on your stomach as you peer over the edge. The restaurant itself is very nicely laid out, and with a multi-tier effect, you don’t feel the space so much. I assume it was laid out in this way to afford everyone a decent view out of the window…

The waiting staff were very attentive – the sommelier remembered having a little ‘discussion’ on burgundies with the Hubby the last time he’d been in – and the waitress brought us some piping hot bread straight out of the oven – yummy!

Now. Before I really begin – I really ought to remind you that I was RAVENOUS when we sat down, and that may have affected my use of so many superlatives – that and the gallon of champagne we’d had at the Serpentine!

The amuse was a tomato water – just fabulous…. Fabulous, fabulous – I’m definitely going to make the effort to make it having previously considered it too time-consuming.

I began with the pan-seared foie gras, spiced duck pastilla, confit lemon and date consommé. The foie gras was, yes, you’ve guessed it – fabulous. But actually the date consommé was even more incredible – I was spooning down to the last drop as the staff tried to take my plate. If I could have a flask of the stuff, I could climb Everest.

The Hubby had the terrine of foie gras, orange purée, spiced salt and toasted brioche. Now the Hubby is renowned in his search for a decent foie gras terrine – he’s had it everywhere and is usually disappointed. Here he thought the flavour excellent, he loved the texture (it looked very smooth), he loved the orange, and even the brioche looked crisper and more robust than the usual offerings. I didn’t even get a look in!

I then had the slow cooked fillet of beef, braised ox cheek, pomme purée and red wine jus. The ox cheek was deep and earthy, packed with flavour and a great contrast to the fillet. The mash was as smooth and silky as you’d expect, and the jus rich to the point of obsession. A proper ‘you can wipe your finger across it’ richness. And I did.

The Hubby had the real highlight though, Cotswold white chicken, tortellini, broad bean, wild garlic and jus gras. It looked stunningly pretty. The small amount I was allowed to steal was loaded with the garlic jus which tasted intensely of roasted garlic purée – smooth, delicious, full of flavour.

By this stage it was too late for pud, though they all looked delicious. We were brought some of the marshmallows, and the strawberry one’s were particularly tasty, without doubt the best marshmallow I’ve eaten. I did also buy a bag of tea (!) – there were some amazing combinations, and I went for one with fennel seed, which aids digestion. I thought it might be a decent Kümmel substitute.

So. If you find yourself in need of a really flavoursome dinner, I’d definitely try Galvin! It has a very cute bar which fills up quite late (I noticed that they shut the doors between the bar and the restaurant when it started to fill). If you like heights the view is sensational. Also, the atmosphere is very relaxed – you could come here with friends and enjoy dinner without feeling as though your disturbing everyone else – a definite plus in this calibre of dining. It’s going on my favourite’s list.

[I couldn’t possibly steal her pics, but unlike me, @ValerieFerman did manage to photo most of the dishes we ate! Here> Valerie’s pics of her meal at Galvin]

Galvin at Windows also participates in Galvin’s Chance – an employment programme for 18-24 year olds – have a look. Galvin’s Chance Brochure

August 11, 2010 Fish

J Sheekey’s, Covent Garden

Last week we went, yet again, to J Sheekey’s. It’s one of my absolute favourites – the staff are always polite, prompt, if sometimes a little brisk – but I like that…. It’s part of the atmosphere, and means they’re doing their job.

There are a couple of ways into the restaurant – I prefer going through the customary greeting by the doorman, into the tiny lobby – but you could go in through the oyster bar if you wish. There’s a teeny tiny bar which serves all manner of things in old fashioned martini glasses, and every available space is covered in photos of bygone stars…

In fact you’ll invariably spot a photo you hadn’t noticed before, and be whisked away on some reminiscence of the role they were playing, the production or film they were in… The restaurant is made up of a series of interconnected rooms, all crammed with little tables, all crammed with very animated diners. This is why I don’t mind the brisk staff, you get the impression it’s all run on a very tight and strict schedule – there’s no room for dilly-dallying.

The play we had been to see, Prisoner on Second Avenue, had finished phenomenally early, and we wandered up from The Strand, thinking that we could sit in the bar until our table was ready – not a bit of it – there way a queue out of the door… We wandered off to peek into the antique print shops in the next alley, and came back at 10.15… This time we were greeted by name (so they were obviously paying attention earlier – always a good sign), and shown to the end room… I have to say I’ve never noticed the division of Sheekey’s into the Gods and Wasteland you see in places like The Ivy… I’ve eaten at some point in every available table for two, four and six! Naturally the Hubby knew someone on the next table, so it was already quite late by the time we ordered.

Now, food: Sheekey’s is the sister restaurant to Scotts, and so you find most of what they do here too… You can eat oysters, caviar, tons of fresh fish, the odd nod to the meat eaters, and veggies – but fish is why we’re here!

As a starter I had little scallops, with crushed peas, pea shoots and crispy pancetta – absolutely yummy – one of my favourite combinations; the Hubby had devilled whitebait, which came out in a huge portion, with a serving of fresh tartare sauce to the side – he often has this – and says this is the place to eat it.

I can honestly say that I don’t eat fish and chips, never have and ordinarily probably never will – but I eat it at Sheekey’s and at Scotts. The haddock has a casing so crisp it shatters with your fork, and it’s served with crushed minted peas and chips – delicious!

This is what the Hubby chose, and I did gaze in his direction, but he ignored my fluttering eyelashes. No matter, I had one of my other favourites – the sole served off the bone, with really good bernaise sauce. I had my usual herb green salad – can’t go to a Caprice Holdings restaurant without that – and the Hubby had his parmesan courgettes.

The food was perfectly cooked: the bernaise was both unctuous and light, the sole practically melted in the mouth. The Hubby’s fish and chips really did look delicious, and he tucked in with gusto. It’s difficult to say much more about it, really: I have never had a bad meal at Sheekey’s – I have never had any issues with the staff at Sheekey’s – it’s a fabulous restaurant!

If you’re going to go to one of the Caprice Holdings restaurants for the food (!), it has to be Sheekeys! If you’re going to celebrate your wedding anniversary, or significant birthday, it should be Scotts. If you’re taking your easily impressed aunt from Blackpool, and you want to show off – may as well go to the Ivy – I don’t want you cluttering up Sheekeys for the rest of us…