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Petersham Nurseries

November 8, 2015 Book Review

Spring, by Skye Gyngell

Skye Gyngell first came to public prominence as the Head Chef of Petersham Nurseries Cafe, a restaurant set up in the grounds of Petersham House. Winning a Michelin star in 2011, the highly seasonal menu and location was meant to be the antithesis of restaurants found in London proper. Ironically the star ultimately led to her decision to leave Petersham Nurseries, as she felt that the location didn’t meet the expectations of the new influx of clients. After taking a little time out, Skye set about creating a new restaurant in an elegant high ceilinged space at Somerset House, and this book was borne out of the process.

And what a gorgeous book Spring is! Primarily a cookbook, but also with a nod to the restaurant, it details the redevelopment of the space and the creation of the recipes. Page after page of delicious combinations that flexitarians particularly will want to eat. There are sections on making bread, your own cordials, ice-cream, butter and yoghurt – even for experienced cooks there are things here to learn or light touches to admire.

These are the recipes:

Starters: asparagus with crème frâiche and Parmesan; eggs, anchovies, celery heart and radishes; carpaccio of wild salmon with pickled green tomatoes and horseradish crème frâiche; crab with crème frâiche and roe; spice-roasted quail with celeriac and walnuts; nettle risotto; chickpea soup with pancetta and sage; potato and porcini soup

Bread: how to make a starter; sourdough; rye bread; rye crackers

Dairy: butter; yoghurt; ricotta

Salads: Little gem, candied walnuts and Caesar dressing; salad of beetroot, tomatoes, goat’s curd and radicchio; raw cabbage, fennel and pecorino salad; slaw with pears, toasted hazelnuts and buttermilk dressing; spinach, wild herbs and goat’s curd; spelt, anchovies and mint; octopus salad with potatoes, capers and olives; crab salad with chilli, squash, curry leaves and lime; roast chicken, tarragon and gorgonzola salad

Pasta: making and shaping fresh pasta; purpled with oxtail argue; ravioli with sheep’s milk ricotta and herb butter; spelt pasta with farrow and pancetta

Seafood: grilled langoustine with seaweed butter; scallops with white beans, fennel and speck; squid with peas and sage; turbot with porcini and bone marrow; wild salmon with preserved lemon butter; sea bass with roasted tomatoes and girolles; halibut with mustard seeds, curry leaves and tomatoes; mackerel with bread and almond sauce

Meat: guinea fowl with farrow and parsley cream; grouse with corn purée and roast figs; braised kids with squash, tamarind and chickpeas; lamb cutlets with roasted red peppers and salsa verde; butterflied lamb with roasted beetroots and carrots; slow-cooked pork with Jerusalem artichokes and walnut and parsley sauce; spiced pork and veal meatballs with tomato sauce; veal chop with fried courgette shoestrings and aïoli; fillet of beef with anchovy, brown butter and wild greens; skirt steak with kimchi

Vegetables: samphire and chilli oil; radishes poached in chicken stock and butter; broccoli with garlic, chilli and black olive dressing; spinach with girolles; slow-cooked courgettes with tarragon; slow-cooked chard with chickpeas; yellow wax beans, radicchio, barley and basil; new season’s potatoes with lovage oil

Fermented: kombucha; sauerkraut; kimchi

Dessert: iced summer fruits with rose-scented geranium syrup; rhubarb crisp; blackcurrant and buttermilk pudding; summer pudding; quince and cobnut tart; plum upside down cake; apple galette; bitter chocolate and espresso cake; candied blood orange and white chocolate nougat; canelés de Bordeaux

Ice-Creams: langues de chat; vanilla ice-cream; burnt caramel, ginger and chocolate ice-cream; roasted strawberry and balsamic ice-cream; blueberry, lemon and mascarpone ice-cream; walnut and chestnut honey ice-cream; Campari, pomegranate and clementine sorbet; ricotta, pistachio and chocolate ice-cream sandwich

Drinks: lime cordial; cucumber and lime cordial; lovage and fennel seed cordial; lemon barley water; quince, ginger and bay cordial; white peach and lemon verbena; grenadine; tonic; bitters; fig liqueur; bicerin

Also pages on: The Architect | The Name | The Design | The Walls | The Uniforms | The Garden | The Kitchen | The Table | The Opening
You can buy your copy here >

Spring, at Somerset House

Spring, at Somerset House

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I’m passionate about food, its provenance and its sustainability. As a technical cook, I like to see what’s happening in the kitchens of Michelin starred restaurants, but you’re just as likely to find me at home making sourdough. You can find some of my recipes in In The Mix 2, an award-winning Thermomix cookbook.

I’m also truly blessed – I can open my fridge at any time and know it’s crammed with all manner of loveliness – but that’s not the case for everyone. There are people all around me in the UK who rely on food banks to feed their kids, and themselves, and every box of cereal or teabag makes a difference. You can donate food to your local food bank, or time, or money, and if you want more information the best starting place is http://www.trusselltrust.org.

You can also find me here:

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